Discovering Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik - Credit: iStockPhoto.com

DUBROVNIK VITAL INFORMATION
Population 49,728
Languages spoken Croatian
Currency1 Croatian Kuna (HRK) = 0.176 USD
Average temperature Summer: 70°F - 84°F; Winter: 46°F - 51°F
High season April to October

Having recovered from an era of war, riots and political strife, Croatia is beginning to welcome millions of tourists each season. The country, which habitually opened its doors to millions of visitors annually before its violent separation from the former Yugoslavia, proudly boasts a multitude of lovely beaches, an amazing countryside and several quaint, medieval towns. With a stable government back in place and the rebuilding process well under way, it's time to visit Croatia once again.

One of the most popular destinations within this small, Adriatic Sea-hugging country is the walled city of Dubrovnik. With a history that dates back to before the Middle Ages, Dubrovnik provides visitors with plenty of unique visuals. Furthermore, the city, aptly nicknamed "The Pearl of the Adriatic," is situated right on Croatia's southern coast, so a host of great beaches and surrounding islands are well within reach. Have a look at this three-day itinerary to understand exactly what pleasures Dubrovnik offers.

Note: All prices are in U.S. dollars.

Day 1: Within Dubrovnik's walls

Playwright George Bernard Shaw put it best: "If you want to see heaven on earth, come to Dubrovnik." From the famous old town of Stari Grad to its picture-perfect beaches, this Croatian city has set a precedent that few European locales can duplicate. In fact, Dubrovnik is considered so unique and precious a locale that the United Nations declared it a World Heritage Site in 1979, then sprung to action to rebuild the city after two-thirds of it was shelled in the mid-'90s.

Before you tour the glories hidden within Dubrovnik's walls, you'll need to find a decent hotel. The five-star Excelsior Hotel goes beyond mere decency, offering luxury accommodation in the city's historic core, with spa treatment and fine dining included. At more than $300 for a two-night stay in a suite, however, you'll be paying for this brand of star treatment. More budget-conscious travelers may want to check into the Hotel Tirena, where clean, comfortable rooms are complemented by a very affordable minimum price of $50 a night.

scale the walls

The best way to begin your tour of this city is by getting in touch with its famous wall. Enveloping the majority of the city, the Dubrovnik's walls stand 82-feet high and feature 16 spectacular towers. For the rough equivalent of $2.60, you can take a 90-minute tour along the walls, taking in the glorious Old Town on one side and the Adriatic Sea on the other. Both the heat and the crowds will begin to creep up by midday, so it's recommended you do this tour in the morning. The entrance to the walls is to the city's north, near St. Spasa Church -- you can easily get there by taxi from nearly any part of town.

Your next stop, and the main point of interest for most visitors to Dubrovnik, is Stari Grad, the city's Old Town. Filled with baroque and medieval
architecture, this ancient area is best toured on foot. Enter Stari Grad by crossing the western stone bridge (which used to cover a moat) and pass through the Pile Gate, which is worth a picture or two.

There are numerous points of interest within the tightly packed blocks of Dubrovnik's Old Town. You'll find that they all branch out from Stari Grad's main street, the Stradun. The Stradun is really the only wide street in the ancient city, and it's lined with shops and cafes; modern conveniences developed inside centuries-old structures.

meet big onofrio

Along this avenue you'll first see St. Saviour's Church, a place of worship that is definitely worth a visit. Hidden behind it, though, is an even more impressive Franciscan monastery, a 14th century Renaissance structure whose highlights include an amazing reading room and Europe's oldest pharmacy, established as far back as 1317. Admission to the monastery will only cost you a single American dollar.

As you make your way back along the Stradun from the monastery, you'll see another point of interest across the way. Big Onofrio's Fountain is a really big domed fountain, and it serves as a meeting place for locals and a cool stop for tourists. If you're into old architecture, this fountain, as well as its smaller sister, will impress.

By this point in the day, you'll probably be hankering for some lunch. Try the Restaurant Antunini, an establishment that serves traditional Croatian
fare, such as Prsut smoked ham and several simple but delightful seafood dishes. Other must-try Croatian staples include a caramel cake called Dubrovacka Rozata and, for a little afternoon kick, local brandy.

city opens up during downtime

Like most Mediterranean towns, Dubrovnik slows down in the afternoon, as owners close their stores and other businesses to reenergize with a power nap. Take this opportunity to leisurely tour Stari Grad's remaining historic sites. One of them is the Rector's Palace, the city's seat of government throughout the 15th century.

The Dubrovnik Cathedral is nearby, as is the amazing Dominican Monastery, an intricate church which has been built and rebuilt several times since construction on it first began back in the 13th century. Admission here will only set you back a couple of dollars.

A perfect place to end your tour is at Luza Square, a place of congregation for many and the ideal spot to rest your weary legs. Here you can gaze up at the square's amazing bell tower and revitalize before dinner.

Start your evening with a dinner at Restaurant Arka, a truly unique Croatian spot where only the best
seafood specialties are served. Remember to try a bottle of one of Croatia's renowned wines -- Dingac and Postup are good choices.

Dubrovnik beaches - Credit: iStockPhoto.com

Day 2: To the coast and beyond

Dubrovnik is home to a number of prime beach spots, all located within a short distance of one another. With the heat creeping up before the noon hour hits, one of them should be your destination for the day.

Along the city's coast, sunbathing options abound. Some hotels have their own private beaches just outside the city walls, creating a large beachfront tourist hub known locally as Babin Kuk. You'll definitely want to go shirtless, but you may want to keep your shoes on; Aside from one small stretch on the city's south side, all the beaches are made of pebbles, not sand.

blasphemy at the monastery

In spite of all these options, the coolest place to bask in the Adriatic heat is not on Dubrovnik's coast. It's the island of Lokrum, just 10 minutes from the mainland by ferry. Take the short boat ride over, then set up shop virtually wherever you want on the island. Ideally, you'll find a secluded spot where you and your friends (or your lady friend) can have some peace and quiet away from the crowds. If you're feeling particularly adventurous, there's a nude beach at the eastern tip of the island -- right near an old Benedictine monastery, curiously enough.

Even the non-exhibitionists will want to trek to this part of island, however, for the Benedictine monastery also houses a restaurant and caf, where you can escape the heat and try the squid and black rice. Other points of interest on the island include a botanical garden and Fort Royal, an old French fort that provides a great view of the whole of Dubrovnik across the water.

croatia's dead sea

These are all certainly cool spots, but an absolute must-see on Lokrum (aside from the nude beach) is the small lake of Mrtvo. Like the Dead Sea, this salt-filled lake is popular because of the ease in which you can float in its Adriatic Sea-fed waters.

As the sun begins to set, you'll leave the secluded beaches of Lokrum and head back to Dubrovnik. After a visit to your hotel to wash up, it will be high time for dinner. For a wealth of restaurant choices, head back to the Stari Grad's Stradun. Here you'll find dozens of places offering high-quality seafood and, as is typically Croatian, lamb and veal as well. One such example is Konoba Amoret, a restaurant where, for approximately $20, you can choose from great mussels, shrimp and a variety of grilled meats.

To top off your day of fun in the sun, visit the Troubadour Jazz Cafe. Though there is little actual jazz being played inside the pub, this spot is great for a taste of Croatia's
brandies, wines and other strong drinks. There are a few other quaint pubs in the neighborhood, so feel free to bar hop a little.

Day 3: Island hopping

As if the residents of Dubrovnik weren't already lucky enough, a group of pristine islands lie less than an hour's boat ride from the city. The Elaphite Islands are known for their beautiful natural scenery and sandy beaches, and are best accessed via a tour company.

Concorde Travel and Tours is one such company, and they will take you to each of the Elaphites' three major islands: Kolocep, ipan and Lopud. After your departure from Dubrovnik's harbor, you'll head first to Kolocep, a small, car-free island with interesting subtropical vegetation and many natural wonders. It's worth walking around Kolocep if only to take in the view of the Adriatic Sea stretching into the horizon.

golden times

On ipan, the Elaphites' largest island, two coves bookend a rich fertile land that earned the area the nickname "Golden Island." From either cove you'll be able to access ruins dating from both the Middle Ages and Roman times.

As you head to Lopud, the busiest and most developed of the three islands, you'll be served a great lunch of
grilled fresh fish and local wine, more than enough to sustain you until dinner time. Once having landed onshore, there'll be lots to do. You can first get your bearings by taking the 20-minute walk from the harbor to Sunj Bay, where a pleasant beach and many great restaurants await. Take a swim in the crystal-clear water and then dine at the Hotel Glavovic's restaurant, where only the freshest fish and crustaceans are served.

dubrovnik is dynamite

Excluding dinner, a trip of this kind will typically cost you about $60, a steal considering that you'll get to visit some of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. Once back in Dubrovnik, you'll have time for one last look at the Stari Grad. Catch a show and a drink or two at one of the Stradun's many cafes before bidding zbogom to medieval Dubrovnik.

With an incredible Old Town and a multitude of beaches and secluded islands, Dubrovnik is a pleasure to visit. Thanks to grand restoration efforts, this ancient city is helping to put Croatia back on the map as a prime tourist destination. It won't be long before the city joins its
Mediterranean cousin-cities as a top European hotspot.

tips for the trip

  • It is commonplace for patrons to add a 10% tip to all restaurant bills.
  • While walking through the Old Town, don't hesitate to stray beyond the Stradun and cruise its narrow alleys and side streets. It's here that you'll find some of Dubrovnik's most interesting shops and restaurants.
  • For longer stays, it's highly recommended you visit the neighboring historical republic of Montenegro.

  • Resources:
    http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/croatia/
    http://www.dubrovnik-online.com/
    http://www.croatia-vacation.com/english/staedteverzeichnis/dubrovnik/dubrovnik_r_01.htm
    http://www.concordetravel.ie/templ_resorts.asp?product_id=72
    http://www.frommers.com/destinations/dubrovnik/3280010001.html
    http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Croatia/Dalmatia_Dubrovnik_Region/Dubrovnik-387793/Things_To_Do-Dubrovnik-TG-C-1.html
    http://www.bbc.co.uk/holiday/destinations/dubrovnik/
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