Ease Into Edinburgh

Population 453,000
Language spoken English
CurrencyBritish Pound (GBP or ); 1 Pound = (appr.) 1.85 USD
Average temperature Summer: 45°-58°F; Winter: 38°-49°F
High season August to September

Perched among long extinct volcanoes, Edinburgh, the capital of Scotland, combines two seemingly opposite qualities: medieval and modern. Edinburgh also manages to boast all the cosmopolitan advantages of a large city without the overcrowding and urban blight common elsewhere. By day it's an explorer's paradise, but by night Edinburgh has a party life that rivals any other in Europe.

Here's a three-day itinerary to get you started.

Day 1: Highland adventures

Edinburgh sits at the foot of the famous Scottish highlands. In truth, with only three days and tons to see and do, you won't be able to get much more than a taste of the hill country, but that shouldn't stop you from trying to take in all you can with a day tour.

Start your morning off right with a good Scottish breakfast -- eggs, bacon, toast, and grilled tomatoes and mushrooms. The squeamish might want to steer clear of the black pudding, which is made of pig's blood. When you're all filled up, hop onto an organized highland tour. The ideal one will include at least three of the following: a glimpse into the highlands, a visit to Stirling, home of the William Wallace monument (we all loved Braveheart ), a stop at St. Andrews (birthplace of golf), a visit to Loch Ness (if you can take a photo of the monster, the trip could pay for itself), and possibly a detour to a whisky distillery or two.

Of course, not all of these locations will be accessible within a single day, so you'll have to pick and choose.

According to the Edinburgh tourist board, most recommended tour operators will charge between 20 and 90 per day ($37 to $167), depending on what's included and the level of luxury. A minibus tour is recommended over a tour bus, because you'll avoid being slowed down by a crowd and be able to access more remote locations. If you have enough guys with you, try to make a deal for a custom tour.

Make the most of your day tour, but try to arrive back in town in time for dinner. Edinburgh has a wide range of restaurants featuring nearly any type of food you can think of. A typical Scottish meals might be a hearty soup or stew that features meat and potatoes; seafood is also popular.

My personal favorite is the Scottish beef, which comes from the Aberdeen-Angus breed of cattle, famous the world over. Top that off with a local microbrew -- the Scottish beer market is dominated by international conglomerates, but the microbrews still have plenty to offer in alternatives -- and you'll have a fine meal.

To make your first night a truly memorable one, try getting a table at the Tower Restaurant. Located on top of the Museum of Scotland, the Tower offers meals at around 18, or $33, per head (before drinks). But the best reason to eat here is to take in the view, which lays out all of Edinburgh for you.

With your belly full and your eyes satiated by the daytime beauty of the highlands, it's time to party, Edinburgh style. Now you'll need to make a choice: Edinburgh, with its large student population and distillery tradition, has more than its fair share of pubs and clubs.

Since there are so many of both, it's a good idea to ask around and find out which venue best suits the night in question. But if you're set on discovering the city for yourself, here are two places to get you started. For pubs, try the Ensign Ewart on Lawnmarket. There's been a pub on the grounds here for over 300 years, so you know that they've got the scene figured out. For clubs, try the Liquid Room in Old Town, which offers the best of the local music scene with occasional big-name bookings.

Day 2: Whisky in the jar

Edinburgh is divided into two distinct sections by Princess Street Gardens. On one side is what's known as New Town, built from the 19th century onward. On the other side is Old Town, with winding streets and impossible turns that harken back to the city's medieval days. Spend the morning of your second day exploring some of the old part of Edinburgh before paying a visit to the Castle.

Edinburgh Castle harbors buildings dating back to the 12th century and is well worth the 7 ($13) admission fee. A guy could easily spend a whole day exploring the rambling grounds, which functioned more as a fortress than a palace. If you're there in August, the castle serves as the focal point of Edinburgh's Military Tattoo, a festival that features military marches, music, dancing, and a nonstop party atmosphere.

When you're done exploring Edinburgh Castle, check out the rest of what Old Town has to offer, including St. Giles' Cathedral and the Scotch Whisky Heritage Center, where you can learn about how the Scotsman's drink of choice made. Don't forget to have a sample. Admission is just under 8, a price which includes a sample for visitors over 18. If, a few whiskys later, you're in the frame of mind to learn something about Scotland's violent and turbulent history, step into the Old Town's Museum of Scotland.

After having made your way around the maze that is Edinburgh's Old Town, it's time to settle in for dinner before your big night out. Check in for some more real Scottish fare at the Clam Shell Fish & Chip Shop on High Street. Yes, you can get a standard fish and chips dish, but the more adventurous might want to try a real Scottish treat like haggis (various animal parts cooked in a lamb's stomach).

Now it's time to get your drink on, which is why you came to Scotland in the first place, right? Head over to Mathers on Broughton Street, where over 100 different malts are available and a discounted brew is featured every month.

Day 3: Get your golf & kilt on

If you're a golfer, you know what Scotland means. Since the game was invented here, it's hard to imagine leaving the country without playing at least one round. Scotland is littered with courses, but Harburn Golf course is located conveniently just outside Ediburgh's city limits. It features an 18-hole country club-style par 69 course. Visitors are usually welcome here, but it's always a good idea to phone ahead. You'll pay 18 for a round on weekdays and roughly twice that on weekends.

After a round of golf, head for Victoria Street and check out the specialty shops that make Edinburgh famous. Now would be an excellent time to stock up on wool sweaters, Scotch or a kilt, if you're man enough to wear one. Geoffrey Highland Crafts and Edinburgh Old Town Weaving Company are both great places to watch craftsmen turn the raw wool of the Scottish livestock into tapestries, tartans and kilts. The craftsmen can explain their trade while you watch and, if you like what you see, you can take something home as a memento.

With all the sightseeing and souvenirs out of the way, it's time to cut loose one last time. Head for one of Edinburgh's many dance clubs and get your groove on. Remember; chicks dig accents. Try Opal Lounge on George Street, where you can have dinner and stay to party. Alternatively, The Venue in Old Town will give you the latest in live musical and DJ acts.

After three days of fun, drinking, eating, and exploring, it's time to say goodbye to this magnificent little city. Head for the airport and start making plans for your next adventure.

tips for the trip

  • Edinburgh is a walking city, so don't bother hailing a cab unless you're going to the outskirts of town. Edinburgh is 160 square miles, but the main points of interest -- all located in Old Town -- can be reached on foot in about half an hour.
  • There are a million and one Scotch makers out there, but Glenmorangie is a popular label, as are White Horse and Long John. You can always ask your bartender for suggestions.
  • Bank hours here are usually from 9:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., but ATMs are widely available.
  • Edinburgh is known as a rainy city. Bring wet weather gear, no matter what the time of year.

  • Resources:
    http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/edinburgh/attractions.htm
    http://travel.discovery.com/destinations/fodors/edinburgh/shopping_20391_1.html
    http://www.edinburgh.org/
    http://www.scottishgolf.com/courses/courses_returns.cfm?course=33
    Edinburgh Travel Guide
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