Scoping Sydney

VITAL INFORMATION
Population 4,000,000
Language spoken English
CurrencyAustralian dollar (AUD)
Average temperature Summer: 80°-90°F; Winter: 62°-79°F
High season November to April

Welcome to Sydney, the cosmopolitan capital of the southern hemisphere. In the past few years, this beautiful city has snuck up on the world to become a tourist hotspot. How did Sydney suddenly become so sophisticated, so stunning? In three days, you won't see everything, but if you follow this guide, your next trip to the Harbour City will forever erase Paul Hogan from your mind.

Day 1: Sydney on the rocks

When you land at Sydney International, you'll still be a ways out from the city center. Rather than take a cab, make a reservation on a "Sunbus" -- this company will arrange for an airport pickups and direct transportation to your hotel for less than roughly $15 US per person. Or you can take the Airport Link, a train that'll get you downtown in only 13 minutes. From the city center, you can then take other trains to all the suburbs, wherever your hotel is located.

If you're keen to start your trip on a more relaxed vibe, head over to Bondi. This eastern suburb of Sydney is only 15 minutes out, and spotted with plenty of Bed and Breakfasts. Barbara and Michael's Bondi Beach Holiday Bed and Breakfast offers rooms from $40 to $90.

If you want to stay right into the thick of things, King's Cross is the place to be. The Crest Hotel Sydney ($70-$100) rises above the melee. The Pink House, a big Victorian Mansion painted pink, is the neighborhood hostelwith rooms starting at $15 a night.

Regardless of where you decide to stay, at this point you'll just be coming off a 20-hour flight from the US, and it's probably a good idea to take a walk. So make your way to the Circular Quay, which is right on the harbor, and then veer left towards George Street. Here you'll discover The Rocks, or what the tourist brochures like to call "Sydney's outdoors museum." This is the foundation place of the city and country, where British convicts first struck ground to clear land and build houses for settlers (you did know that country of Australia was originally the British Empire's jail, right?).

If you want a good history lesson, get to The Sydney Visitors Centre on George Street. Having undergone a renovation in recent years, The Rocks can sometimes feel a little touristy, and you'll find that the prices are consistent with every major city's "heritage" hood. So watch out for sucker deals, and don't buy any stupid T-shirts.

Sit down for lunch at the Asian fusion restaurant Opium, which, for reasons I can't fathom, only serves lunch on weekdays. They offer a nice, quiet midday deal for about $10.

There are a few things you can do after lunch. History buffs, walk around and check the sites. Artists, the Museum of Contemporary Art is also on George Street. Veer away from the Market, which has these little booths selling trinkets that seem perfect for your home until you get back and actually unpack them. But if you're the guy with a miniature Leaning Tower of Pisa, Eiffel Tower and Big Ben on his mantelpiece, there might be a place there for a china kangaroo.

For dinner, Fish on the Rocks is a fine seafood restaurant. After you eat, get over to King's Cross, whether you're staying there on not. Opinions regarding the Cross are divided -- some say it's sleazy, some wonderful and some weird. In any case, it's worth at least one visit.

Soho Bar is one of the spots to find, as is World Bar, for all-night partying and dancing. Even if you're with an adventurous girlfriend, you might want to keep away from the strip clubs. They can get pretty hardcore.

Day 2: Sydney on the water

After a night in the Cross, you wake up wearing high heels next to a man dressed as a kangaroo. It's time to get out of the city for a while.

Probably the best way to do so is by jumping into a powerboat that will take you on a tour of the Sydney Harbour, which is expansive and beautiful. Most such tours offer music and commentary in typically upbeat Aussie style, and can be had for roughly $50 to $70 per head. You'll probably enjoy yourself more than you would doing the same trip on a ferry.

Get your land legs back with a meal at the Eastbank Caf-Restaurant, then head over for a close-up of the Sydney Opera House, one of the strangest and most beautiful modern buildings in the world. Lounge off lunch in the surrounding park.

Wharf 2 at the Circular Quay is the starting point for a late afternoon trip to Taronga Zoo, approximately 12 minutes by ferry. The Taronga is structured around the notions of conservation and natural habitat, rather than just a collection of cages, making it one of
the best zoos in the world.

Go back downtown for a light dinner a Don Quixote on Kent Street, known for its tapas la carte . If you're up for something heavier, try their famous Roast Suckling Pig. This dish dates back to the establishment's very first menu.

After dinner, head back to the Cross, and find Arq on Flinders Street. While the clientele is primarily gay, one of Sydney's most impressive clubs still draws its fair share of breeders. If you weren't too keen on this neighborhood during your trip the previous night, check the ultra-cool Uchi Lounge in Surrey Hills instead.

Day 3: Sydney in the water

Enough of this tourist stuff , you say, I want the Australian dream . I want 6' blondes in bikinis on surfboards. I want miles of beach. I want beers and shrimps on the barbee and simple, friendly Aussies named Greg and Ryan. Fine, fine -- we're off to Bondi. Bring your suntan lotion because it cooks.

Bondi Beach is about 15 minutes east from Sydney proper. After you've settled yourself on the beach, you can take a walk and have a bite at one of the spots along Campbell Parade. If you're a surfer, you'll love Bondi Beach. If you're a tourist who likes to run into the water, get smashed by really big waves, then come out sputtering only to run in again, the waves here will do that for you too.

While it can get a little windy on the beach, it's worth devoting a whole day to Bondi. After dinner in or near the Bondi Hotel, go to the Bondi Icebergs Club to see all the beach beauties out of their bikinis.

tips for the trip

  • Australians are loud, brash, and generally friendly people. If you want to get along, make fun of
  • New Zealand. Just be sure that you aren't actually speaking to a New Zealander at the time.
  • Refrain from trying to imitate the Australian accent.
  • The sun, especially in the summer months, can be dangerous. Children in Australia aren't allowed out for recess without hats on. Think about it.
  • Some might find the Australian heat to be too much in the peak of summer (December & January). If you can wait, May and June are just as nice but much more temperate.

  • Resources:
    http://www.sydney.com.au/
    http://www.sydneymate.com/
    http://www.redballoondays.com.au/
    http://www.zoo.nsw.gov.au/index.htm
    Sydney Travel Guide
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