Yet as I was soon to discover, Florence is awash in contradiction. Beyond the exquisite art and architecture is a dark side. Read about the good and the bad in my Florentine diary.
good cheap lunch on arrival
As I stepped onto the train platform, awash in the afternoon sun at the Santa Maria Novella station, my heart pounded in excitement and my stomach growled with hunger. As a prepared traveler however, I knew that the city food market was a short walk from the station. Ten minutes later I was browsing the aisles of the outdoor oasis, full to the brim with figs, grapes, watermelon, meats, and cheeses. I procured a cheap and quick lunch for myself to go and decided to make my way to the hostel I had booked on the Internet four months before.Back at the train station, I hopped on what I hoped was the right city bus and took it to the end of the line, outside of the city center. It was the most affordable city tour I could have had and made for a wonderful introduction to Florence. As the bus navigated the narrow streets, I was witness to one amazing sight after another, from the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore to the Ponte Vecchio. In a matter of hours, I would see them up close and personal.
a hospitable hostel
After a 30-minute ride, the bus came to a stop at the Ostello Villa Camerata; the best and most popular hostel in Florence. The hostel is at the end of a modest hike along a wide country lane, lined with foliage. The building was once a country estate but is now home to backpackers and campers who come from all over the world to experience Florence. I patted myself on the back for booking in advance as I saw the hostel staff turn away a group from New Zealand who expected instant accommodation. After locking my backpack in my sparse but adequate dorm room, I wasted no time in walking back to the bus stop.time to explore
The essence of being a tourist purist and not handing your experience over to a package tour deal is that you can write the rules. Every day is a different adventure custom made by you, for you. I thought about this as I took the bus into Florence. Although I was armed with a guidebook and city map, I let instinct lead the way and stepped off on a whim.By chance, I had disembarked in Piazza San Marco, a picturesque square bordered by a convent, a restaurant with a sumptuous take-out counter and the Galleria dell'Accademia. The latter is home to none other than David , the masterpiece created by Michelangelo. I could barely contain my excitement as I approached the entrance.
The one thing I could not have anticipated, however, was reserving the right to enter the gallery. Such was my introduction to Florence during high season. I was told by a guard to return the next morning to book my entrance. Dejected but still in awe of my environment, I ran to the Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore.
the spectacular duomo
It is difficult to describe the feeling that I was overcome with as I approached the giant structure, known to the world as the Duomo. It is the fourth largest cathedral in the world and is renowned for having a unique nougat faade.The building is an architectural marvel that dwarfs everything around it and commands instant respect, no matter your religious designation. The Duomo was completed around 1450 although construction began in 1294. Brunelleschi, the Renaissance master, won a public competition to design the famous dome, decorated with elaborate frescoes and stained glass by Donatello and Lorenzo Ghiberti.
The climb to the top of the dome was a physical challenge and a fascinating experience. The narrow spiral to the top is not for the faint of heart, but the unrivaled view of Florence is worth it. I felt like the supreme ruler of Tuscany as I gazed out over the rows of red clay tile roofs, stretched out before me.
speechless at the uffizi
Once my tour of the Duomo was complete, I fought through the tourist horde to the Uffizi Gallery and caught a break. The museum was to close in two hours and there was a lull. I had been told to expect a wait of an hour or more but instead, I was able to stroll in alone.The Uffizi is home to many of the most recognized paintings in the world, representing the legacy of the former first family of Florence, the Medici clan. Even if you do not appreciate art, it would be a crime to miss The Birth of Venus and The Allegory of Spring by Botticelli, The Annunciation by Leonardo Da Vinci, and The Holy Family by Michelangelo. The allure of the Uffizi was powerful. Although I could have remained through the night, the need to maximize my time was strong.
the bridge hitler couldn't crush
The Ponte Vecchio is a five-minute walk from the Uffizi. The 14th century structure is miraculous in that it was the one bridge to withstand the onslaught of Nazi warplanes during WWII.Once home to the city meat market, it is now lined with gold and silversmith shops. It was an education, witnessing the old jewelers work their craft, as tourists with more disposable income than me herded into the cramped shops trying to score a deal.
a meeting with michelangelo
After a relaxing evening munching on authentic pizza, olives and wine, I enjoyed a deep sleep and ventured out at 7:00am for the Galleria. A nocturnal animal by nature, I could not afford the luxury of waking up in the afternoon if I was to take in the splendors of Florence.A certain marble statue was calling my name. I stood near the front of the line for the museum for over an hour but the experience was enhanced with a spirited conversation about basketball with a father of three from Philadelphia. As the doors opened, my thoughts turned once again to art and culture as I meditated on the fact that I was standing in the cradle of the Renaissance movement.
No amount of preparation can dull the experience of David . I had expected to snake around the museum, viewing less celebrated pieces before being exposed to what is regarded as the definitive work of sculpture. But this was not the case. No sooner had I entered the museum, turned a corner and there he was, at the end of a long, wide corridor. The masterpiece that Michelangelo forged with his own hands, David .
As I stared in awe, I was reminded of the words of an art critic who once said of the statue: "Once you see David, there is no need to ever see another sculpture. It is the be all and end all." How poignant I thought, as I sat down to take in the sight of the triumphant marble shepherd boy.
more art to behold
Beyond the spectacular Duomo, the Uffizi and the Galleria dell'Accademia, there are a slew of cultural options to choose from in Florence. I would recommend any site commissioned by the Medici family, including the Palazzo Vecchio and the Piazza della Signoria, designed and built between 1298 and 1340.The Medici clan converted the site into a ducal palace over two hundred years later. The decor is astonishing. Likewise at the Basilica di San Lorenzo and Cappelle Medici, the former rebuilt by Brunelleschi, decorated by Donatello, with a library designed by Michelangelo. The Cappelle is a marvel of marble and precious stones and was the main burial site of the Medici dukes.
the way to do florence
Florence is a tourist Mecca in the summer so beware if you plan on visiting in June, July and August. The best plan is to book ahead. With over one hundred budget hotels, as well as four hostels and several campgrounds, the choices are affordable and available so long as you reserve in advance.Transportation in and around the city is cheap and simple. The train station is located in the heart of the city and the bus system is efficient. I recommend, however, that you pound the pavement to experience the flavor of Florence firsthand.
Food can get expensive if you opt for a sit-down meal. The smart tourist fills up at lunch, taking food to go and eating on the way to a cathedral or while in line at the museum. If you do crave a traditional Florentine dining experience, try to stray from the main streets. A hidden trattoria will give you much better bang for your buck.
So what about that dark side I spoke about? Florence is a definite must if you ever plan to visit Italy. If you have a low tolerance for crowds and air pollution, however, stay away during the peak summer season.
I was able to negotiate the negative side of the city without having my experience damaged, but as a lone backpacker on a budget, I had an advantage over a family of five, for example.
One woman I met commented that the city reminded her of a certain theme park in her hometown of Orlando, Florida. With two tired children and an impatient husband at her side, I understood.
Resources:
Florence Travel Guide
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