Walking In Memphis

Population 650,100
Language spoken English
CurrencyUSD
Average temperature January: 40°; July: 83°; October: 63°
High season Spring Break & Summer

Credit: Getty Images
It's known for being the birthplace of rock 'n' roll, the big bad barbecue, Beale Street, the Blues, and of course the King of Rock & Roll. Memphis continues to undergo a reawakening, a face lift of sorts, with a revamped downtown, a new basketball arena (for the Grizzlies) and other parts of the city getting a much-needed injection of life.

The summer definitely gets hot and more crowded at the usual tourist sites, so a visit during wintertime might provide a better option. Although the women may wear less during the summer, it's far more appealing to visit the clubs, bars and museums without the throngs of crowds. Although the city boasts many indoor sights, bring gloves and an umbrella for those cold January and February days.

Day 1: Barbecue, beale street, bed

The first thing you want to do is get yourself downtown, which isn't difficult or expensive. Next, find yourself a hotel to spend the night along the river, preferably within walking distance of Beale Street. If you're not trying to impress anyone, The Comfort Inn puts you close to the action and the amiable staff will answer all your questions.

Want to impress someone? Check into the Madison Hotel. This little "boutique" job boasts the greatest Mississippi River view anywhere, and is the place to be. It's like a W Hotel but with a musical theme. Each room contains Egyptian cotton sheets, down comforters, and all that comfy stuff you would expect at a five star hotel, but the place still retains a funky, soulful setting.

During winter however, the rooftop Grill 83 continues to be the place to be seen, as it turns into a scene with a hip crowd sipping cocktails and enjoying the view.

All this looking around has surely made you hungry. Memphis goes way back as a barbecue town, so start the rib expedition at the famous Rendezvous, located in a small alley downtown. The eatery goes way back as do most of the waiters here. It's old school spicy, Memphis dry ribs (none of that wet stuff). If you're with a woman, be careful, because this is messy eating. Order up some sausage and cheese as an appetizer (trust me), and then let your waiter do the rest of the ordering.

The dcor is made up of an organized chaos of pictures, knick-knacks, historical items, and stories. Apparently, many years ago, the Rolling Stones were almost refused entry because they were too raggedy.

Once you're done, take that full stomach and head to Beale Street, where you can listen to music until 3 a.m. and drink until 5 a.m. The few pedestrian-only blocks that make up Beale Street draw locals and tourists alike, with the hodgepodge of restaurants, bars and clubs.

During the summer, no matter the night, lots of ladies stroll the street with drinks in hand as it's legal there. Intoxicated southern belles, rock, blues, ribs... who could ask for anything more?

Day 2: Off the tourist track

No doubt after a late Beale Street night, there won't be any of that "get up early" nonsense. Late risers and locals head to the up-and-coming Cooper-Young district to work off the night before. A good southern breakfast at Buns on the Run will cure that hangover. This no frills bungalow serves up some tasty grits and blintzes as well.

The area recently became kind of artsy, so work off that breakfast with a walk down Cooper Street. Duck into Second Time Around Flea Market & Antiques where the piles of used books, old lamps and classic board games fill the shelves.

Those looking for classic Memphis sound should head down Young Street into Leguma Records where they specialize in the sounds that made Memphis famous (maybe a little something from the King of Rock & Roll?).

Head just a few stores down to Bella Notte, a cozy little establishment where you can get your lady some local jewelry or girly bath stuff chicks dig so much.

At lunchtime, make it a point to grab a bite at the Beauty Shop. No barbecue here, but this hot new Cooper-Young eatery contains enough atmosphere to shake a rib at. The built-in hair dryers, custom lamps and eccentric staff take care of the ambiance, while the Green Goddess dressing, fusion salads and kickin' Bloody Marys keep the palate happy.

Rest up later that afternoon because you'll need it. Most visitors never venture past Beale Street, but those who want to experience the real Blues scene, the joints where the locals hang, should experience the American Dream Safari. Unlike most tour companies that transport visitors in buses or mini vans, this one-man show, who knows the inside scene, transports his guests it in a '55 Caddy. You'll be all too tempted to make out with your honey in the back of this baby, but try to hold off.

The tour doesn't start until around 10:30 p.m. and explores juke joints that tourists wouldn't normally head to or be able to find. Places like Wild Bills, CC's, the Blue Worm, and the Hard Luck club aren't exactly on the tourist map, but they all show off some of the most authentic blues (and sometimes funk) bands in the city. It's an awesome experience.

Day 3: A visit to the two Kings

After steering away from the tourist circuit, today we'll move back towards it. It's hard to be in Memphis and ignore the King of Rock & Roll. Known as the "Birthplace of Rock 'n' Roll," Sun Studios recording studio launched the careers of Elvis Presley, B.B. King, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, Roy Orbison, and many others. The short but interesting tour offers a glimpse into the history of the studio, as well as time inside the recording studio. If you or your honey feel inspired to belt out some tunes, its possible to rent the studio for $75 per hour.

Not that inspired? Maybe a trip to Graceland will change all that. You can't visit Memphis without a trip to Elvis' pad -- and what a pad it is. Who wouldn't be able to score in just about any of the '70s style rooms? The TV room shows off a crazy black and yellow color scheme, three TVs that were state-of-the-art for the time, and an incredibly cheesy bar. Even the billiard room with the hanging fabric will impress you.

The self-guided audio tour takes visitors through the house (except the upstairs), the car museum and the Lisa Marie, his custom jet, which has a bedroom bigger than some New York apartments.

If you're inspired to eat like Elvis, you can take the downtown trolley to the Arcade diner where the King used to chow down with his buddies. They do make some mean biscuits and gravy. From one King to another, while you're in the area, it's only a short walk to the National Civil Rights Museum. Built into the Lorraine Motel (where
Martin Luther King was assassinated), the museum offers an amazing view of civil rights with a collection of photos, scale models, audio exhibits, and many words of wisdom. It's easy to get sucked into the history.

The museum also incorporates the actual hotel rooms where King Jr. and his staff stayed just before the assassination. The museum's new and equally interesting addition across the street offers an assassins eye view of the motel. It's a conspiricist's delight with displays highlighting various theories about who killed MLK, why, how, where, etc.

The city maintains an exciting energy that visitors don't often seek out. It's filled with rib sticking (albeit unhealthy) food, authentic music and those southern belles. Hey, if this town was good enough for Elvis, then it's good enough for you.

tips for the trip

  • Visit Graceland either early or late, as crowds tend to hit in the middle of the day.
  • Check hours of restaurants, as many places like Buns on the Run are closed on Sundays.
  • Leave your car at your hotel (if you're downtown) and walk or take the trolley to Beale Street. You'll be glad when you don't have to drive home later, with alcohol in your system.
  • If you're thinking about club hopping on Beale Street, consider buying a wristband for $10 that allows entrance to all the clubs.

  • Resources:
    http://www.americandreamer.com/
    http://www.memphistravel.com/
    http://www.memphisite.com/tourism.html
    http://memphis.areaconnect.com/statistics.htm
    Memphis Travel Guide
    Get the best articles you find interesting, free TipsAndWorks.com Subscribe by Email Share/Save/Bookmark