Cruising In Cape Town

VITAL INFORMATION
Population 1 million (in the city)
Language(s) spoken English & Afrikaans -- there are 11 official languages
CurrencyThe Rand
Average temperature Summer: 80F (with humidity); Winter: 60-70F
High season November to April (summer)

One of the most beautiful cities in the world, Cape Town is quickly becoming a top tourist destination. In its post-apartheid life, this city is emerging as a cultural capital of world-class stature, with something for everyone. Cape Town women are gorgeous and laid back, its history is unbelievable, and the city is quickly becoming a great party town that world famous DJs love to frequent.

The best time to visit is from November to April, in the South African summer, when the beaches and the clubs are packed, the sun shines, and everything is available for the tourists. From the airport, take a shuttle or a cab into town; it's about a 20-minute drive, depending on traffic.

Day 1: The Mountain & the Island

A big shock for the first time tourist is the still very present disparity between white and black, rich and poor. Many poor Africans have made their way to Cape Town in search of prosperity, only to find themselves in the shantytowns that surround the city and the airport. Driving to Cape Town is disconcerting, for in such beauty lives such poverty. The first day might require some adjustment to such extreme conditions.

A gondola ride up the steep embankment of Table Mountain, the flattened peak that rises above Cape Town, can give you the larger view of the city and the bay, wherein you'll spot your next destination, Robben Island, where Nelson Mandela was held for 25 years.

After descending the gondola, you'll find yourself at the V&A (Victoria & Alfred) Waterfront, where a 3½-hour ferry ride to the island is offered -- a must if you're at all interested in the political history and present of the city. Before you board, grab a quick lunch at the Victoria Mall.

Accommodation in Cape Town can be reasonable, but be sure to check specials and other deals, which are day specific and might cause some problems if you take them at face value. Many hotels offer great rates for Tuesdays and Wednesdays, and then increase their prices for the weekends. Go upscale at The Commodore ($400 US, average, but under $200 on discount) in Portsmouth or take the economical route and stay at the Ashanti Lodge Hostel ($25 and under) nestled in the shadow of Table Mountain. If you want to be right in the middle of the nightlife, get yourself a place around Long Street, the cheapest being Hotel Metropole (around $40 a night).

At night, check out Long Street. Pick up the Cape Review for all the gigs in town, or go to Pickwicks on Long Street, a clubbers institution, pick up flyers and ask around. The Lounge might be a good spot for your first night: it's small and dark but has a balcony and features an array of music, from jungle to trip-hop, each week.

Day 2: The Fields

Just outside of Cape Town you can find the famous winelands. Towns such as Stellenbosch, Paarl and the town of Franschoek are highlights. Rhebokskloof, near Stellenbosch, is a perfect example of the Cape's famous wine estates. Now the easiest way to get there is by car, but after stopping at a few estates, you might find yourself too intoxicated to drive.

To avoid this, there are day tours that you can easily find through your hotel, or you can get someone in your group to sit sober, promising him free drinks when you get back to town that night.

For lunch, travel into Stellenbosch and find the Fishmonger-Stellenbosch at the corner of Ryneveld and Plein for seafood. Try the Linefish Pan, which has grilled linefish, squid and prawns. Or go high style at Governors Hall & Terrace at the Lanzerac Manor, on the Lanzerac wine estate, and enjoy seafood and game.

When you get back into town that night, get to the trendy Somerset Road in Green Point and find the restaurant called, wait for it, 0932Zero932, a fusion of Belgian and South African cuisine, on the Cape's Atlantic Seaboard.

Here's where you have to make a decision: You can cool off and enjoy some jazz at The Green Dolphin or hit the center of town for Studio 47 or The Fez. Or, if you're really into the bongos (some people are), get yourself to the Drum Caf, where you get your own drum and start banging away with others.

Day 3: The Beaches

As you might have seen from your time on Green Point, there's a whole ocean waiting for you. Cape Town's women, who usually sunbathe topless, bring new meaning to chilling out on the beach. So follow their lead and sit back and relax. The Atlantic Ocean is pretty cold, so if you feel like snorkeling or scuba diving, get a wetsuit.

Or, if surfing is your deal, the Western Cape has some of the best in the world: Kommetjie, Noordhoek, Clifton, and Rocklands are the places to go.

After Day Two, I can't see anyone rising before around lunch. During the day, if you have a hankering for fresh sushi, go trendy at the Tank (a bit pricey) or find the Maz on Sea Point.

The big night is coming, where you need to get to the out-of-town Dockside Superclub -- impressive, stylish, and renowned for bringing in the top DJs, like
Paul Oakenfold, Pete Tong and Judge Jules. After a day of relaxing at the beach, you'll be ready to party.

tips for the trip

  • The big game in South Africa is rugby, and Cape Town has a top team called the Stormers. If you get a chance to go, it's a great experience.
  • Most of South Africa has been afflicted with a rising crime rate and Cape Town is no exception. So don't walk home alone at night. Stay in groups and you'll be pretty safe.
  • A 10% tip is considered acceptable.
  • Don't worry about shark attacks, as they are rare in the cold waters of the Atlantic.
  • When I was last there, signs all over town repeated one stat; one out of every 18 Capetowners has AIDS. So be advised if you plan on engaging in sexual activity.

  • Resources:
    http://www.eating-out.co.za/
    http://www.travelcreek.com/Capetown.htm
    http://www.cape-town.org/
    http://www.cape-town.net/html/mapcity.html
    http://www.robben-island.org.za/
    http://travel.ian.com/index.jsp;jsid=bOYBOZVyvK59?pageName=hotSearch&cid=78095&fc=list
    Cape Town Travel Guide
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