Cruising Italy's Capri

VITAL INFORMATION
Population 12,500
Language spoken Italian
CurrencyEuro
Average temperature Winter: 50° F; Summer: 72° F
High season May through September

If taking in stunning seaside scenery from the homes of the greatest Roman emperors, all while basking in the dolce vita of Southern Italy is your thing, then the island of Capri was made for you.

This tiny volcanic island of wildly irregular altitudes, a stone's throw from Naples, lends itself to fantastic vistas and world-famous hiking trails that lead travelers to unforgettable beaches and mystical grottos. No wonder the emperors of Rome, as well as today's rich and famous, chose to make it the location for their vacation homes.

Here's what you need to know in order to make the most of Capri in three days.

Day 1: Crazy in Capri

While the entire island is named Capri, it's actually divided in two, the Eastern half bearing the island's name, while the Western part is dubbed Anacapri. Though one main road connects the two sides, the side streets are restricted to residents, as the island is considered a pedestrian zone. But with so many great trails, who wants to drive?

Start the day at Marina Grande, or Great Port, the island's most important harbor, and the best entry into the island from Naples. As the site of many tourists resorts, it has awesome beaches to start your day. You can also take an excursion aboard one of the tourist boats that departs from there. A stroll down the town's quaint streets is like walking back in time by about 600 years, especially when stepping into the church of San Costanzo.

Take the road into Capri town, and from Piazza Umberto, follow the road to Villa Jovis, the largest of 12 imperial villas that were home to two great Roman emperors: Octavius Augustus and Tiberius. At about 1,100 feet above sea level on Mount Tiberio, it hosts one of the best views of the island fitting for a monarch. Marvel at the sophistication of Roman architecture put into its halls and baths.

If you descend to the eastern tip of the island, Matermania, by boat, you'll happen upon two natural masterpieces, the Marvelous Grotto and the White Grotto. The Marvelous Grotto's inside is a rainbow light show as the water reflects the light from outside and from White Grotto below. The latter gets its color from the high mineral concentration.

In Matermania, you'll also find an impressive grotto used by the Romans as a nymphaeum, a monumental fountain. Inside, you can see the remains of walls that enclosed a hall and an apse. Just outside is the Natural Arch, a rocky arch that used to be the entrance to a huge cave, but whose sides have since been eroded by time.

End your day in the most famous place in Capri: the terrace bar in Punta Tragara, the southeastern tip of the island, facing the world-famous Faraglione rocks that rise from the sea below. Rest your tired body on the Tragara beach or watch the wicked sunset from its eponymous belvedere. If you have the energy, backtrack to the Natural Arch and dine at Le Grotelle, the best-situated restaurant on the island.

End your day in Capri at the Taverna Anema e Core, one of the most popular nightspots with great live music and dancing.

Day 2: Capri & Anacapri Centers

The actual towns of Capri and Anacapri, that lure thousands of tourists with their friendly streets and interesting shops, are great attractions on their own. The heart of Capri is the Piazza Umberto (which you quickly passed by yesterday), fondly called La Piazzetta. It resembles a courtyard surrounded by stores and cafes, and the San Stefano church.

In the maze of narrow streets, one comes across artists' studios that are open for passersby to witness local craftsmen working their magic. Anything from paintings and sculptures to ceramics are readily available. The perfume labs are also open to visitors, who are welcome to purchase the locally made perfumes. Not to be missed are the distilleries, where Capri's specialty, the Limoncello lemon liqueur, is carefully concocted.

For the most magnificent work of local architecture, check out the Charterhouse of St. Giacomo, built in the Middle Ages and whose functions changed several times with the invaders and occupiers of the island's history. Today it houses a museum, a school and a library, and is located next to the Gardens of Augustus.

Have a light lunch at Belsito, where they serve homemade breads, pasta, and cakes made in a wood-burning oven.

Take a slight detour and head to Marina Piccola (Small Port), which houses a very nice beach and some great restaurants. Terrazza Brunella offers local specialties with a perfect view of the bay.

If you're in the mood for a difficult hike, head up to Mount Solaro, the highest point in the island, and marvel at Capri's natural setting, that is home to over 850 species of animals. The resident Church and Hermitage of Santa Maria di Cetrella, built in the 1400s, are still used today, and nearby is Tiberius' other, less preserved villa.

A chairlift will take you down to Piazza Vittoria, the center of Anacapri, which actually looks better from above, since there is little to do there except dine. Fortunately, a good restaurant, Columbus, is right there, allowing you to fuel up so you can grind with other tourists at Underground or Zeus nightclubs, which are practically beside each other.

Day 3: Anacapri

Return to the coast by treading the most scenic walk in the island, the road to the Migliera Belvedere on the southeastern portion. The refreshingly level road winds through an incredible landscape featuring valleys and vineyards. You'll be rewarded when you reach the belvedere, which looks over the southern coast all the way to the Faraglione. Grab a lunch at Da Gelsomina where typical local dishes are served facing the Gulf of Naples.

You should take the road northwest and pass by the Torre della Guardia, a very cool medieval lookout post with a wide view of the western island. Keep on the road that hugs the northwestern tip and prepare to see Capri's single, most famous landmark: the Blue Grotto.

Visitors are often at a loss for words when trying to describe the Blue Grotto. A small opening accessible by rowboats takes you into a cavity illuminated by a submerged opening to the outside. The effect of the light makes the water a deep, vivid blue that makes visitors feel as if they're navigating the heavens. While bathing is prohibited, be daring and take a dip inside after the tourist boats have left, usually after 5:30 in the evening.

After this experience, grab a bite at Add'o Riccio, known for great seafood. Enjoy a boat trip back to Marina Grande and go back to Capri. Check out the Baraonda nightclub and dance your last night away. Bid arrivederci to Capri, remembering to return and explore the other treasures of the Amalfi Coast, including
Naples, Pompeii, and Sorrento.

tips for the trip

  • Try to avoid going in July and August, as tourists turn the island into a zoo. The winters in Capri are mild, calm and just as nice.
  • Wear comfortable shoes, as you'll be doing a lot of walking. For the lazy guys, there are bus and boat routes that connect the major points of the island.
  • Capri is full of areas begging to be explored (including the babes). Feel free to carve your own hiking itinerary through them.
  • If lodging in Capri is too pricey, stay in Sorrento, only 25 minutes by boat from the island.

  • Resources:
    http://www.capri.net/salsa/lang/en/page/home.html
    http://www.capriweb.com/
    http://www.capritourism.com/
    http://www.ricksteves.com/books/backdoors/amalfi.htm
    http://www.kampanien.biz/capri.htm
    http://www.virtualtourist.com/vt/25b4a/
    Naples Travel Guide
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