Touring Trinidad & Tobago

If you're looking for that sandy paradise that you've seen in travel posters all your life, look no further than Trinidad & Tobago (T&T): a tropical rum punch dreamland with crystal blue beaches and barely dressed women.

There's a reason why this two-island nation, just off the Venezuelan coast, is one of today's hottest travel spots. Not only is it the business capital of the Caribbean, it's also home to the wildest carnival in the region, where both the drink and the women flow like nectar. So grab your swim trunks, put on your calypso shoes, and get set for the T&T explosion.

before you go

T&T's famed carnival is the best reason to go. The festival, starting two days before Ash Wednesday, in February or March, is legendary. Tens of thousands of revelers the world over flock to Trinidad, where a pre-dawn procession kicks off the drinking, singing and wanton jolliness that lasts two days.

But during Carnival the islands get very crowded, and finding hotel vacancies is a feat worthy of an Olympic sport. Either book way in advance, or, if you want to avoid the throngs of tourists altogether, go in the low season between April and December.

Trinidad is a mosaic of ethnicities, home to Africans, East Indians, Europeans, and Arabs, all of whom have integrated a bit of their respective native cultures into their adoptive society. As a result, the array of foods and traditions on the island is beyond compare.

Getting around the islands is very easy thanks to the myriad of taxis and small buses that run constantly. If you can afford it, it's not a bad idea to rent a car. Most of Trinidad's attractions are in the northwest region of the island, all within an hour's drive of the airport. Tobago, the smaller island, can be entirely toured in one day.

Day 1: Port of Spain & surroundings

So you've arrived in Trinidad's capital, Port of Spain. Waste no time and hit the beaches right away. Maracas Bay, the most popular beach in Trinidad, is on the north coast. It's a long stretch of sand with a fishing village at one end. Because it's a favorite, it can get crowded. All the better to meet local ladies or adventure-seeking tourist women.

Once you've swum up an appetite, be sure to try a local delicacy, the shark-and-bake sandwich. It's a fried shark filet on bread, seasoned to your liking.

Then head on over to Las Cuevas Bay, a scenic beach lined with submerged and semi-submerged caves that you are free to explore at your leisure. For refreshment, enjoy some of the local fresh fruit sold right there.

Once you've had enough sand and sun for the day, head into town. Port of Spain is a bustling business capital, thanks to the rich offshore oil reserves in Trinidad. You can catch a glimpse of the island's history at Independence Square, located in the heart of the city.

Queen's Park Savannah, a plantation-turned-racetrack, is also worth a visit. Its west side is lined by the Magnificent Seven, a group of striking colonial-style buildings, and Stollmeyer's Castle, which looks impressively similar to a Scottish fortress.

The nightlife in Trinidad is famous for its movement and intensity. Calypso is king, and its steel drum beats are intoxicating. Pier One, the place for late night fun, is only 20 minutes from Port of Spain, and is definitely worth the trip. The dance floor overlooking the ocean is incredible, and it even offers a party boat for serious revelers.

For a more low-key venue, try Pelican, an English-style pub, where the crowd often spills over into the parking lot. If you're still not tired, Smokey and Bunty, essentially an after-hours stretch of sidewalk, offers up some fun folks and cheap booze.

Day 2: More Trinidad

Trinidad, with its wealth of fauna and flora, is visually spectacular. The Asa Wright Nature Center, in the heart of the local rainforest, is famous for its guided hikes and well-worth a visit.

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary, just south of the Port of Spain, also offers cool natural sights for visitors. On a boat tour, you'll see sloths, mudskippers and boa constrictors wrapped around branches just above your head. Even more striking is the Scarlet Ibis, the national bird. Even if you're not a nature lover, the view of the bright red ibis flying over the swamps is unforgettable.

If you want more beaches, the northeast of the island has a spot favored by body surfers called Balandra Bay. On the Atlantic coast, Manzanilla Beach is one of the nicer beaches in Trinidad.

Now, Trinidad's beaches are okay, but for a real treat, which I've been saving for last, you have to go to Tobago. So head back to the Port of Spain and catch the late afternoon flight to Crown Point, Tobago, so you can see the sunset from Pigeon Point beach. Cap off the night in The Deep dance club, where pop, rock, and soca (a sexier calypso) blend in a most seductive way.

Then start the next day on the coolest island ever.

Day 3: Tobago

Unlike its bigger sister Trinidad, Tobago is slow-paced, relaxed, and much more scenic. Not much seems to have changed since colonial times, 200 years ago. This is by far the ideal place to chill out.

Start the day where you left off last night, in Pigeon Point. This beach, embossed on all of Tobago's travel brochures, is as close to paradise as you'll get: Crystal clear waters shaded by palms and lots of good, cheap food.

If you decide that you want to see more of the island, hug the Caribbean coast going northeast, and stop in Buccoo, where you'll find one of the most renowned snorkeling sites in the world. Continuing up the coast, you'll pass by Mt. Irvine beach (a great surfing spot), Turtle Beach, Castara Bay, and Englishman's Bay, which is an absolute must if you're with a woman. It is both gorgeous and deserted, if you catch my drift.

On the northern tip of Tobago, you'll find the fishing towns of Charlotteville and Speyside. Near Charlotteville is the charming Man o' War Bay, where seafood feasts are a daily occurrence. Nearby is Pirate's Bay, so named because it was a haven for prowling buccaneers. Speyside is the main hub for those who want to visit Little Tobago, a tiny island great for snorkeling and for glass-bottomed boat tours.

Finish off in King's Bay, and catch the sunset. Back in Crow Point, check out Kariwak Village or Bonkers for live jazz-calypso bands.

When you go home, you'll be shuffling your feet to the soca , wearing the most contented smile, tailor made by a people who know what a good time is all about.

tips for the trip

  • If you want more Tobago than can be done in one day, use day 2 for Tobago as well. Then split the Day 3 itinerary between two days, taking your time in each spot.
  • Visitors should exercise caution in Trinidad. Walking alone at night is not recommended.
  • Though the US dollar is widely accepted, it's better to exchange your money into T&T dollars, which are accepted everywhere.

  • Resources:
    www.virtualtourist.com
    www.lonelyplanet.com
    www.fodors.com
    www.visittnt.com
    www.meppublishers.com
    Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide
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