Buenos Aires: Very Good

Argentina's capital, Buenos Aires (BA), was once known as the Paris of South America, and it still retains much of this old-world charm. The following itinerary will make BA an unforgettable destination.

before you go

Buenos Aires is a year-round destination. However, I would advise going there during their summer -- spanning roughly from December to February -- as the stunning Argentinean ladies tend to be scantily clad and quite playful.

So brush up on your Español and get ready to spend three bárbaro days in BA, the Big Apple of the south.

Day 1: Historical splendor

Most visitors to Buenos Aires are surprised at how truly European the city looks. The locals know this, and are quite reluctant to consider themselves South Americans. All it takes is a look around to see where this attitude comes from.

Start your day at the core of the city, the Plaza de Mayo. This is the nerve center of Argentina, and the place where some of the country's most historically significant events occurred. The Casa Rosada (pink house), where the president lives and works, the Calbido, the impressive city hall, and the Metropolitan Cathedral, dating back to the 15th century, are all located here.

The Piramide de Mayo is its central monument, commemorating the May Revolution of 1810, when the first Patriotic Government was declared.

Walk down the Avenida de Mayo, and take in its rich café society, reminiscent of Vienna. Take a moment to enjoy a steaming cup of the local coffee and an alfajor , a pastry filled with dulce de leche caramel. Hang a right at the Avenida 9 de Julio, the widest thoroughfare in the world.

A short walk will take you through the bustling business center, and to el Obelisco, a towering shrine similar to the Washington Monument. Stop for a breather here, and you may even catch a glimpse of the daily changing of the flag by the National Color Guard.

For a light meal, stop at a nearby restaurant for some incredible empanadas (stuffed meat pies) or, if you're in the mood for heartier fare, order Argentina's famed asado , a succulent cut of beef prepared to perfection.

Take a stroll down Avenida Corrientes, a stylish shopping hub of the city, where you can gaze at the exquisite porteñas (Buenos Aires ladies) that help make this city so alluring.

Nearby, on Calle Libertad, you'll find the Teatro Colón, considered one of the greatest opera houses in the world. Even for those who dislike classical music, this is a must -see in Buenos Aires. Try to catch a concert there -- if not for the actual spectacle, then just to say you did.

Come nightfall, be sure to experience BA's rockin' nightlife. Famous spots include El Divino club, located at the Puerto Madero docklands, and the Buenos Aires News, a huge entertainment complex with pubs, stages, dance floors, and a restaurant.

Day 2: Barrios of fun

It's time to leave the commotion downtown and explore BA's outer neighborhoods, overflowing with culture.

Your first stop should be La Boca, the colorful dockside barrio where the tango was born. Founded by poor Italian immigrants, it has maintained a working class charm, and is a hotbed of local art and open-air museums. Take a stroll down Caminito Street, laden with street artists and tango dancers. Remember to keep an eye out for pickpockets, and don't stray from the main streets too much.

Be sure to catch a
soccer game by a local team, the Boca Juniors, the cradle of international legend Diego Maradona.

After the game, cross the bridge to Puerto Madero for a meal. Try a matambre , a rolled stuffed flank steak, or a revuelto gramajo , a kind of omelet with potatoes, ham and chicken. After lunch, walk over to San Telmo, where many museums and tango houses thrive all day.

If you want to escape the city for a bit, the Bosques de Palermo is the main green space of the city, and boasts scenic lakes, a Japanese garden, a zoo, and a planetarium.

Off to Recoleta, one of the most elegant sections of BA. Located in the city's north end, its streets are alive with busy cafés and shopping areas. The splendid Recoleta Cultural Center and National Museum of Fine Arts awaits the art aficionado. Next door to these is the world-famous cemetery where Eva Peron, aka Evita, is buried.

Since you spent a good part of the day watching tango dancers, come evening, it's time to test your own porteño footwork. Go to La esquina de Anibal Troilo, a traditional tango bar where
anyone can dance. If all you want to do is see people doing the tango, Señor Tango, El Viejo Almacen and Casa Blanca are the tango concert halls reputed to have the best shows.

Cap off your night by going crazy at the Million nightclub in Recoleta, where the city's finest women flock.

Day 3: Pampered in the Pampas

After the full city experience, you might be fancying a little country goodness. Luckily, Argentina's famed pastoral lands and home of the gauchos -- the cowboys who embody Argentine romanticism -- is only an hour and a half drive away.

You can arrange a tour of the Pampas, where you'll see the hardy gaucho fieldsmen herding the cows that produce the world's finest beef. Farms are open for visitors and they serve the freshest, tastiest grilled meats. You can also try Argentina's national drink, the mate (pronounced ma-tay), a bitter herbal tea served in a hollowed gourd and sipped with a metal straw. Mate is more of a social activity shared among friends. If you are offered one, don't decline -- doing so is considered very rude.

Nearby is the Lihué Calel National Park, boasting an incredible array of wildlife. Head back to BA for a final adios , and go home humming your favorite tango song.

tips for the trip

  • Taxis are the ideal mode of transportation in BA. They are cheap and fast. But be sure to order one, particularly the ones called remises . Trying to hail cabs often leads to trouble for tourists.
  • For good shopping, head to Florida Street. It's for pedestrians only, and a sight to see.
  • Change all your money at the airport and keep it in a hotel safe, or carry a credit card. Banks and exchange offices usually have very long lines.

  • Resources:
    http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/south_america/argentina/
    http://www.virtualtourist.com/vt/86d/
    http://www.cityguide.travel-guides.com/cities/bua/cityoverview.asp
    http://www.cityguide.travel-guides.com/cities/bua/KeyAttractions.asp
    Buenos Aires Travel Guide
    Get the best articles you find interesting, free TipsAndWorks.com Subscribe by Email Share/Save/Bookmark