Making Magic In Madrid

In a country known for its beautiful beaches, art and vibrant culture, its biggest city often gets overlooked. Why should that be? With an internationally recognized nightlife and amazing Spanish cuisine, Madrid is a free-spirited metropolis. Often perceived differently than Rome or Paris because it's relatively lacking in the historical sights that define Europe, this capital city is in fact the heart and soul of Spain, challenging any critic to tour its streets, party it up in its clubs and take in its world-renowned museums.

Seeking adventure, I took up this challenge. Not that I ever looked down on Madrid, but after hearing that its citizens' motto is "work to live" rather than "live to work," there was no turning back. I figured a three-day excursion would be enough to taste what the city of 3.1 million had to offer without getting into too much trouble.

Day 1: A bit of art and fun

Once you land in Barajas Airport, Madrid's metro remains your best bet to get to the heart of the city. In fact, the train's efficiency will make it the best way to get around throughout your entire trip. A quick look at the metro map will clue you in on how to get to Gran Via; a central location where hotels are cheap and street life is always abuzz.

One of the moderately priced hotels is the Tryp Washington, offering functional rooms, which is all you really need. Moving from the hotel, the pleasant Spanish weather can be well appreciated with a stroll along the streets. Head toward the happening Puerto del Sol (Sun Gate), considered the "center" of Spain, for a taste of Madrid's old buildings, shops and cafés.

classic art

If you like all the female Madrileos (citizens of Madrid) strolling in this busy area, stop for a coffee and snack. You'll have a lot of time during the day to take in the most common attractions, since the best nightclubs and bars don't open until midnight and only become packed at 3am. Take advantage of these long days and when the people watching gets old, take off for the "Golden Triangle."

The Museo del Prado, Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia make up three of the most amazing museums in Europe. Within walking distance of each other, they house amazing works from Picasso, Velzquez, Dal, and Van Gogh. The Prado alone is world-renowned and would require a full day's attention for a true art aficionado. Of course, the art is a wonderful bonus in this city that parties until the break of dawn, so see the main paintings, but keep in mind that Madrid's other attractions still await.

food before party

To shake off the subdued atmosphere of the museum halls, your next destination should be the nearby Plaza Santa Ana in the Huertas district. It is a lively spot where, as the sun sets, the throngs of eager Spanish partiers increase by the minute.

Your first order of business should be getting some food. For traditional fare, there's La Ancha , an inexpensive place that offers delicious lentil stew and clam omelets. Of course, to enjoy the true Madrid experience, a tapas bar (tapas is a Spanish style of serving various dishes in small portions) is a must.

If you want to start drinking as soon as possible, check out the nearby Naturbier brewpub. There's a fun time to be had as you tour the facility.

dancing till dawn

Since it's likely too early to hit the dance floor, a wise choice would be to go see some live bands at Café Central, a place where top jazz artists frequently appear. Enjoy the sounds of the live band and then step out into the street to choose from a wide variety of nightclubs.

For flamenco shows and some sensual dancing, Casa Patas is the spot, while the Palacio de Gaviria offers a beautiful interior and a different theme every night of the week, from tango and salsa to international flavors. Have a great night, stay up real late, but watch your pocketbook -- entry and drinks are known to be very pricey in Madrid.

Day 2: The outdoors and true tapas
The perfect way to shake off last night's excitement is by visiting Madrid's most impressive park, the Parque del Buen Retiro (Good Retreat Park). Here, people come to escape the city's hustle and bustle, strolling past magicians, musicians and poets.

To blend in, purchase some fried corn kernels ( kikos ) and follow the paths that meander throughout this huge green space. Have your future predicted by a tarot reader, rent a rowboat near the man-made lake and appreciate the scenery -- not to mention the numerous seoritas .

kick it old-school

Continuing the outdoor excursion, make your way to El Rastro, Spain's biggest flea market, where bargaining is expected; there you can pick up a wide variety of beautiful ornaments. If you're not into that, stroll north to see the Palacio Real, a palace of 2,800 rooms, and the Plaza Mayor, a unique Spanish square. At the Plaza, take a break by tasting some of the different sangrias at the taverns and get some sustenance by trying a fried squid sandwich. Ol!

Realistically, all this walking will wear you down a bit, so finding a place to chill at this juncture is recommended. Stick to the Plaza if you like the sangria, but there are numerous taverns in the vicinity that will recharge your batteries and offer you insight into true Madrilenian culture.

Return to your hotel to get refreshed and into gear for another night out. You're up to it, right? The Moncloa - Argelles district doesn't get going until after 9pm, but if you arrive early and the sun is still up, check out the Faro de Madrid. It is essentially a lighthouse -- although there is no water around -- and serves as a great lookout from which to gaze at the city in all directions. Even the ride to the top is exciting, as it takes place in a glass elevator.

tapping it tapas style

For the most authentic Spanish experience, you must spend your night at a tapas bar. Although you may have visited one on Day 1, this will be even better. As you walk into one of the many that line the area, you'll notice some big differences than what you are used to at a regular bar. As you sit at the bar, many different two-bite dishes will pass by to accompany your drink. Grab one that looks tasty, but don't worry about paying right away -- the "bartender" keeps track of your tab with a skillful eye.

Once you're done eating a dish and only the remnants of a bone or toothpick remain, toss it all on the floor. This is the Spanish way: A rowdy, fun time where people bond over plates of delicious food and numerous drinks. You'll get used to the mess after trying different sausages, marinated vegetables and pastries. It may seem strange at first, but after a short time, you'll realize how fun a night at a tapas bar can be.

Day 3: The grand finale
Parque del Buen Retiro, Credit: AboutMadrid.com
The best way to wrap up your stay in Spain's capital is with a walk down La Castellana, Madrid's main, tree-lined artery. From Atocha train station, you can walk to Paseo del Prado, past the three mammoth museums, and continue until something strikes your eye. You can choose from the Real Jardn Botnico (botanical gardens) or, if that doesn't tempt you, check out another square, the Plaza de Cibeles.

coffee talk

To engage in a deep intellectual discussion, the Caf Gijn is always full of scholarly types. If you can't communicate your thoughts properly while giving Spanish a try, just sit back and enjoy the signature white coffee. Continuing down the massive streets, you'll find impressive buildings like the National Library and a square and monument in honor of Christopher Columbus.

soccer, squares and streets

The rest of the day is open-ended. If you enjoyed the Naturbier microbrewery, there's an "interactive" beer museum approximately 12 miles outside Madrid, called the Fbrica-Museo de la Cerveza. If you want sports, reserving in advance could net you tickets to a Real Madrid soccer match. This club is one of the best in the world and currently boasts players like David Beckham, Zinedine Zidane and Luis Figo. Games are held at the Santiago Bernabu Stadium, near the National Library.

Returning to the hotel from a match, a final goodbye to Madrid can be had by visiting some more old plazas or making a second trip to the museums. The Gran Via, where the suggested hotels are, is one of Madrid's most popular avenues, and it's where locals and tourists come to enjoy a drink in the shadows of the many eccentric-looking buildings. Relax, reflect on the past three days and try to pick up some Spanish in order to approach the numerous mama sitas that are strolling about.

madrid is mahvelous

Although the attractions of Barcelona and San Sebastian at times overshadow what Madrid has to offer, there is no denying that this Spanish metropolis scores big on nightlife, culture and attitude. From the tapas bars and the flamenco dancing to the art galleries and outdoor strolls, the city goes out of its way to provide fun for all.

tips for the trip

  • Watch out for pickpockets, especially in the parks and when strolling the main streets.
  • While there are many great nightclubs and bars to choose from, cover charges and drinks can be steep.
  • When planning your trip, take note of the numerous festivals that occur during the year. Carnivale is especially fun and takes place in February/March. Bullfighting season kicks off in February, but the four-week main event starts in mid-May.
  • To get the best feel of Madrid, blend in. Have fun at the tapas bars, don't turn away in horror at the mention of bullfights, and open your mind to the culture. And most importantly: Enjoy!

  • Resources:
    http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/europe/madrid/index.htm
    http://www.aboutmadrid.com/#
    http://www.concierge.com/madrid/
    Madrid Travel Guide
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