The five towns, tucked between Genoa and La Spezia on the Ligurian Sea, have become a haven for avid travelers who seek a respite from the heavy tourist zones and want to enjoy some quiet hiking, diving, and gazing at a marvel of nature and man.
before you go
Founded around the 12th century, the Cinque Terre is a settlement wedged between sea and mountain. The scarcity of space led its inhabitants to build their homes vertically, on top of each other, or fastened to hillsides. The result is a scenic stack of buildings overlooking the sea with all the small town charms, like public squares and quaint restaurants.The five towns, from north to south are Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. I recommend that you visit the area in this order, while following a 3-day itinerary. Though all the towns are connected by rail and ferry, it's a region best explored on foot through its linking hiking trails. Indeed, this is not a destination for the sofa and tour bus tourist.
getting there
Levanto and La Spezia are the two gateway towns into Cinque Terre. Trains from major cities like Milan, Rome, Florence, Bologna, Pisa, and Genoa go to both towns. Once in either town, the Regionale line connects them, stopping in each of Cinque Terre's boroughs along the way. Driving there is not recommended, as roads are small and parking scarce. Besides, trains in Italy are comfortable, affordable, and allow you to relax while you take in the sights.Local trains and ferries stop every hour in each town. A Cinque Terre Card wins you unlimited access to the trains, parks, and several hiking paths, and is therefore the ideal purchase. A three-day card costs €13. For a little more, you can get a special card that includes ferry usage.
a wide choice of lodgings
Because of Cinque Terre's exploding popularity, it is recommended that you avoid the high season, between July and September. Not only is everything booked solid, but the unsightly throngs of tourists will dampen the effect of this coastal gem.It is hard to find available lodging in the five towns, so I recommend staying in the northern gateway city of Levanto, which is bigger and offer up more options. You can make it your home base while you visit the region. In Levanto, you can select from hotels, B&Bs and even camping sites. Hotel double rooms range from €40 to €80. I suggest the Villa Margherita B&B chain, which covers Levanto and the five towns.
Day 1: Levity in Levanto
The northern border town of the Cinque Terre is a sight on its own, and worth a day to explore. Its long sandy beach is a good place to catch the day's first rays and get some color. With some of Italy's biggest waves, it is a local mecca of surfing, and a nearby port will let you rent some boards. Non-surfers can also rent motorboats, pedal boats, and canoes.Levanto's city walls of yesteryear remain intact, as does the 13th century castle, and countless ancient churches. The charming painted villas reflect the creativity and brightness of its people, who can be seen happily bustling in Levanto's Wednesday market. Nearby you can sit down for a pizza and local dishes at Taverna Garibaldi, found in the enchanting Via Garibladi. This region is famous for its pesto, and the locals actually claim to be its creators.
Local products like Ligurian wine and olive oil are cheap and excellent, and abundant in Enoteca le Tumeline, one of the town's nicer shops.
It's time to visit the actual Cinque Terre. Take a ferry or train to the first town on our itinerary, Monterosso al Mare, which has the best beaches of the five towns. Its picturesque streets are replete with artisan shops, wine cellars and great restaurants. I highly recommend the seafood risotto at the last restaurant on the main esplanade.
Check out the 17th century Capuchin Father monastery, which is filled with great art and provides a breathtaking panoramic view of the town from above. This town also has a fine beach, just opposite to the train station where you can catch the gentle late-day sun.
Once you've had your fill of Monterosso, you can end your day back in Levanto at one of its many pubs, which usually open round 10 p.m. Pub Vineria serves up some great local wine, while Mad Max attracts the younger set with its intricate graffiti wall. For dancing and mingling with some local ladies, try The Casino, which opens at 11 p.m. and goes until 4 a.m.
Day 2: Get your hiking gear on
Monterosso is the touristiest of the five towns, which is why it's good to get it out of the way first. You can start your second day fresh by taking the train or boat to Vernazza.Start the day by treating yourself to the best in Vernazza: a cappuccino at a seaside courtyard where the spray of the ocean refreshes your senses. Then go up to the watchtower and admire the stunning view of the harbor. This is probably the high point of your day in Vernazza, as this town lacks the originality of the other four. It's time to start hiking on to the next town, Corniglia. This is a lush and green trail, with rather steep parts, which takes 90 minutes to transverse.
Built on a promontory, Corniglia is surrounded by two beaches where you can chill under the early evening sun. But the real treasure here is a beach so secluded that its bathers are in the buff. Indeed a lovely sight, Guvano beach is reached by following the Corniglia walls above the shore until you reach an abandoned tunnel. Ring the bell at the tunnel gate, and once inside, a 10-minute walk will take you into this nudist haven.
Back in town you can catch the Church of San Pietro at sunset, one of the most significant monuments in the Gothic-Ligurian style overlooking vineyards and olive groves. After a hearty meal of famous steamed mussels in garlic, stick around for a nightcap, or take the train back to Levanto for a shot at another pub.
Day 3: Wine and dine
Take the train or ferry to Manarola (or back to Corniglia if you want to keep doing the hike: a 45-minute walk by the sea). In Manarola, you'll see the spirit of the Cinque Terre. Full of friendly people, this 12th century town is full of small lanes and alleys worth exploring. There are three main restaurants that serve up the town's famous white wine, simply called Cinque Terre. A meal for two with wine at Gli Ulivi totals a reasonable €60. The church of San Lorenzo is its most characteristic structure in the colorful Baroque style.The walk from Manarola to Riomaggiore is the easiest and most travelled. Called the Via dell'Amore (trail of love) this is a 20-minute solid path carved into the cliff with sporadic stairs that lead down to sunbathing rocks. Access is cheap, and is included in the Cinque Terre train card.
Riomaggiore is a large town, and considered the region's best, it's full of wonders to cover on foot. The Madonna di Montenero promontory dominates the village and offers another spectacular view. If you want to swim in the clearest water in Italy, head to the left of the harbor where you will see the spectacular pebble beach. The nearby Tramonti area is now a national park displaying marine life and the local flora. For a terrific seafood dinner overlooking the harbor, go to La Lanterna restaurant.
Now stand above the town, take it in one last time, because you will remember it as one of the most romantic spots you've ever seen. Next time you go, it will be with your special lady. I guarantee it.
tips for your trip
Resources:
http://home.sunrise.ch/avong/cinque_terre/
http://www.cinqueterreonline.com/
http://www.5terre.com/
http://www.levanto.net/
Vacation Packages
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