Malaysia: A Land Of Many Pleasures

On the southern tip of Southeast Asia lies a gem of a country boasting both natural splendor and the latest in modern advancements. The country of Malaysia is divided between Peninsular Malaysia (south of Thailand) and the northern section of the island of Borneo.

It is truly a melting pot in Asia, contrasting with the surrounding countries where one race usually dominates the population. Indian, Chinese and Malay cultures influence the whole way of life in this country of 22 million, and offer any visitor a unique peek at the effect of the blending of these peoples. Visiting Southeast Asia has always been a dream of mine, and seeing Miri, the Mulu Caves and Kuala Lumpur can fulfill any Asia lover's fantasy.

take a look in the miri

To visit Miri, one can simply fly to Kuala Lumpur International Airport and then take a two-hour flight directly to this town of about 180,000 people. Merely being in this town is an experience in and of itself. Miri may seem like an insignificant dot on your atlas, but it offers something more than any commercialized big city can: an insider's look at life unaffected by the bustle of foreigners.

Arriving in the small airport, one can already guess at the simple life led by the mostly Malay and Chinese people who live there. Miri is predominantly an oil town, where land drilling has been halted for offshore work just off the coast, in the South China Sea. Shell and Petronas oil companies send workers from all over the world to Miri in order to establish projects.

The first thing you notice upon arrival in Malaysia is the heat. Getting off the plane at Miri airport, a wall of thick, humid air hits you like a smack in the face. The temperature climbs to around 35°C every day, plus 100% humidity. There are only two seasons -- a rainy and a dry -- and in either of them one cannot escape the heat.

If it is any consolation, you do get used to it after a few days and in mostly any establishment, air-conditioning is constantly running. If you are a Westerner, the second thing you will notice is that everything is different. From the direction of traffic (Malaysia follows the British way), to the houses, to the fruit vendors selling jackfruit and durian, Miri represents a different world.

The first thing one should do is tour the town. Just walking around or taking a cheap taxi, $6 to $8 US, will make you realize and respect the fact that in Malaysia, one is always surrounded by the beauty of nature.

Rainforest stretches from one end of Borneo to the other, and always provides a wonderful backdrop. After going around town and perhaps checking into one of the main hotels in the "downtown" area, it is time to get some refreshments and a snack.

The tropical climate provides for some wonderful fruit, and almost any small store or restaurant offers cold juices made from fresh mangos, papayas, lychees, or sugar cane.

Throughout the time spent just browsing around or having a cold drink, you can take the time to meet the Malay people of Miri. Polite and shy, the people of the town are accepting of visitors and willing to accommodate and inform you of anything you wish to know. The Malaysian government encourages its people to not only speak Malay, but English as well, so there is no language barrier.

Although just being in this town is the most important experience, there are specific things to see as well. Visit the beach, the local shopping malls and then go for a culinary adventure at a Malaysian restaurant where Indian and local cuisine combine to form great spicy food where snapper and prawns are staples. The many different combinations of seafood, fruit and spices make eating alone reason enough to spend a weekend in Miri.

The great thing about the town is its simplicity. All the places mentioned are within walking distance (often even viewing distance) and therefore not much sense of direction is needed. Pleasure can be taken from the most basic of things, like watching lizards scurry around your hotel's lobby and observing a beautiful sunset over the South China Sea. After a few days spent in Miri, it's time for a more exciting adventure.

mulu madness

The Royal Mulu Resort is only a 25-minute plane ride from Miri airport, and already your adventure has begun. The 18-passenger plane flies low over the rainforest, providing a breathtaking view through the clouds.

The small area of Mulu houses the biggest limestone caves on Earth and is often called the "Eighth Wonder of the World." A 2-night stay is cheap, thanks to the weak Malaysian currency (Ringgit, with a conversion of RM 4.00 to $1 US), and absolutely stunning.

Upon arrival, a guide immediately picked us up and started us on a 1.8-mile trek on a well-built, elevated path through the jungle toward the first two caves.

On the way, you will see and hear many things you've only seen on television up till now. Poisonous trees, lizards and hypnotic-moving millipedes pass you buy -- don't forget your camera! Once at the caves, make sure you pick up your jaw after it drops to the ground in awe.

You will be looking at Deer cave, capable of holding London's St. Paul's Cathedral 5 times over. It looks as if a huge gash in the mountain that overlooks Mulu was opened up. The guide shows us all the amazing stalactite and stalagmite formations, as well as the 2 million bats that live there. Don't bring your new running shoes on the trip; they will get full of guano, or bat dung, a Malaysian delicacy.

It takes about 2 hours to walk through Deer cave and its neighboring formation, Lang. After that, you can rest at a strategic lookout in the late afternoon in order to watch all those bats escape from the cave in a huge swirling black cloud -- bring binoculars.

After a hearty dinner of noodles, chicken and Asian soup served at the hotel (you usually buy a package tour for Mulu that includes all meals, for RM 560 or about $150 US) you'll be in dire need of a good rest inside your comfortable hotel room, only a 10-minute drive by your tour company's car from the cave sites.

The following day's activities include seeing the remaining caves, Clearwater and Wind, which have rivers running through them, and visiting a native village where you can purchase some local handicrafts. The whole experience of Mulu is absolutely fantastic and many adventurous tourists from Holland, England and Australia visit all year long for an inexpensive, unique trip to a world wonder.

If you haven't had enough of the rainforest in Mulu, upon your return to Miri, you have the opportunity to take a day trip through the dense natural surroundings. Those truly brave people who wish to do the hour-long walks need only refer to a number of local travel agencies in order to feel so small in the huge expanse of rainforest.

kuala lumpur

Your final destination in Malaysia should be a visit to the big city of Kuala Lumpur, something you should be yearning for after roughing it in Mulu. It is the capital, located on the eastern coast of Peninsular Malaysia. With a population of 1.2 million, KL (as it is affectionately called) is a microcosm for the rest of the country.

It represents a delicate mix of modern architecture and traditional customs, making it stand out among Asian cities as very diverse, accepting and daring. As you land in KL International Airport, you immediately see the recent economic boom the city has undergone. The airport is extremely modern and any person who is literate is able to make their way to their gate.

After taking an aero train to the city (only RM 35, about $9 US) you are thrust into the downtown area, where it is busy with people and traffic, but not overcrowded or dirty. Look up toward the sky and you'll get a neck sprain from seeing all 88 stories of the world's tallest buildings, the Petronas Towers. Further along the skyline, one can see KL Tower, the Telecom building, and a 100-metre flagpole in the city's center, all evidence of amazing architectural feats.

After checking into a local hostel or hotel (try to avoid places in the downtown area, which could be expensive), as always it is encouraged to get your bearings. Take a taxi, cheap as always, to KL City Centre, the huge shopping mall at the base of the Petronas Towers. Walk around, see the people (often you'll see stunning women who are half Chinese, half Indian) and purchase some nice Asian food such as chicken rice, a popular Malaysian dish.

more sites in kuala lumpur

After satisfying your taste buds, grab a free ticket in the building's lobby and take a tour up to the 41st floor to the Skybridge connecting the two towers. Here, at the highest bridge in the world, one can get an amazing view of the city and a peek at the other sites to see.

Before nightfall, it is advised to visit the outdoor markets near Chinatown where one can
haggle with hundreds of street vendors for anything from knock-off Prada wallets to clothes and the new Celine Dion CD you won't admit to wanting. Things are already cheap in Malaysia, but at the markets the prices descend even lower.

If you don't have a lot of time on vacation, here is something to take note of: In general, one can do two main things in KL -- tour the city while eating and shopping at the many magnificent buildings, city squares and parks, and experience the booming nightlife. These can all be done within a relatively small distance from one another, and often at the same time.

Many vendors around sell exotic foods, just be careful not to take any water or fruit that does not have a peel since your stomach may not be used to the plumbing system. Buy some food, then walk around and observe the dynamic nature of KL.

The city truly has personality, and with the many outdoor terraces and parks, there are always interesting people moving about. Must-sees include the Petronas Towers, the KL Tower, the city's magnificent new mosque (just ask a taxi driver to take you), as well as the shopping centers and big nightclubs.

The nice thing about the nightlife is that the clubs are all located along one street downtown and are associated with each other. Admission at one links you to the others, all offering various dance, hip-hop, techno, and house music with cheap drinks and beautiful, uninhibited, exotic women. Try Foxx Discotheque on Jalan Bukit Bintang (Starhill road) where one can get liquored up and dance to a live deejay.

Malaysia truly stands out among its neighboring countries. Although deeply affected by the Asian economic crisis in the late '90s, it has recovered excellently. Throughout the places you wish to visit, all the necessary things such as transportation and lodging are available at very reasonable prices. Every aspect of your stay will be truly Malaysian, a mosaic of varying cultures ready for you to experience.

insider tips

  • Often the restaurant that looks the grungiest is the best for price and quality.
  • To get the seller to settle on your price at the open-air markets in KL, it's always to good to pretend to become disinterested and start to walk away. They need your business and will beg you to return.
  • If you're interested in wildlife, keep a lookout for monkeys and lizards even in the big city. The outskirts of KL house many species worthy of a peek.

  • Resources:
    http://www.lonelyplanet.com/
    http://www.asianinfo.org/
    www.kuala-lumpur.ws/nightlife
    http://www.oxfordcity.co.uk/
    http://www.goborneo.com/
    Malaysia Travel Guide
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