Chill Out In Campos Do Jordao

Population 51,000
Largest Town Capivari
Language spoken Portuguese
CurrencyBrazilian real
Average temperature 60°F in summer, 46°F in winter
High season June through August

While Brazil may be known this side of the equator for its amazing beaches, vast jungles, stunning women and a penchant for fingerprinting Americans, it holds many treasures in its countryside.

One of its most treasured getaway spots is Campos do Jordo, a group of towns tucked in a valley of the Atlantic rainforest known for its unforgettable natural scenery and eco-tourism adventures.

Situated between the major cities of So Paulo, Rio de Janeiro and Belo Horizonte, it's easy to get to and is the perfect respite from the chaos of the metropolis. Also known as the "Brazilian Switzerland," Campos offers the best of the country with the excitement of its trails and waterfalls, extreme sports, and great nightlife.

when to go

The high season in Campos is the Brazilian winter, around mid-July, during which you'll get to enjoy most attractions, as well as its noted winter festival of orchestral music. Since Campos is almost 2,000 meters above sea level, it gets cold, occasionally dipping below freezing (great for ice skaters).

In the high summer (December-January), it's warmer but due to the rainy season, many outdoor activities can get wet. For the best temperatures and sights, head to Campos in the spring (October).

Day 1: The Towns

When arriving in Campos do Jordo (preferably by bus from So Paulo or Rio de Janeiro) you'll feel as though you've been transported to a Swiss town surrounded by tropical forests. You'll see its German-style city gate, a fetching architectural landmark where you can hop on the famous train that will take you through its major towns.

Your first stop will be the township of Abernssia, an important commercial center of the region with quaint architecture and the Municipal Market, where locally made crafts and specialties are sold.

History buffs can take the almost 2-mile road to the Boa Vista Palace, the winter home of the governor of the state of So Paulo, and tour its 105 rooms filled with 17th and 18th century antiques, and nearly 2,000 works of art.

Get back on the train and head toward the town of Capivari, but hop off a little before, at the Ducha de Prata (Silver Showers), a small man-made waterfall in a lush park with a very pleasant walk of interlinking bridges. You can then get back on the train to Capivari or simply walk there.

As the main town of Campos, Capivari boasts an impressive array of stores, restaurants and bars in its old world streets. Sit down at a sidewalk restaurant and order a fresh trout dish that was just caught in a nearby trout farm.

From Capivari you can take the cable cars to Morro do Elefante (Elephant Mountain) for a stunning view of the Paraba Valley. For a little spelunking, head to the nearby Gruta dos Crioulos, a cave that's said to have been a hideout for runaway slaves.

Return to Capivari for some great dining and drinks, and then hit the Passione Flash nightclub, the hot spot where the beautiful locals and tourists flock.

Day 2: Pedra do Ba

Today the adventure begins. Head to the town of So Bento do Sapuca, where the impressive rock formation, the Pedra do Ba (Rock of the Trunk) is found. With over 50 hiking trails, it's a national favorite for climbers and eco-tourists alike. For the truly adventurous, the Ana Chata peak offers the most challenging trail, involving a grotto, long, steep climbs and a narrow path with an abyss on both sides. The reward is the most spectacular view of the region.

Pedra do Ba also has a launching platform for hang-gliding for the adrenaline junkies. Here you'll find great facilities for a Brazilian favorite: arborism, or tree-walking. This is done over a network of bridges built on treetops where you get up-close with tree fauna and have great views of the land below. Take the Pesca da Montanha trail to get there. On the way back, you can fish for trout.

Return to Capivari to cook your catch, or dine at one of its many restaurants. Later at night, hit Quest, another hot nightclub full of beautiful and fun-loving locals.

Day 3: Horto Florestal

Start the day with a stroll through Campos' state park the Horto Florestal, the oldest park in Brazil, only 8 miles from Capivari. This vast preserved area has many trails where the local fauna, including the suurana (a species of puma), the quati (a cross between a ferret and a raccoon) and several endangered species including the purple-chested parrot, roam free. You'll also be surrounded by the strangely beautiful Araucaria brasiliensis (local pine trees).

Many of the trails pass through rivers and waterfalls. The best is reached over the Galharada trail, where a hike of 4,600 meters through dense vegetation gets you to the cascade of the same name. Though the waterfall is small, it's great for a quick swim.

If you want one last thrill, then make like a tropical Indiana Jones and head to the Sapuca River to negotiate its deep canyons on rappel or cross-canyon ropes.

Party it up one last night in Capivari at the Target club, sealing your appearance at Campos' best night den. After these three days in Campos do Jordo, you'll feel invigorated and make plans to return.

tips for the trip

  • The best way to get to Campos is by bus from So Paulo or Rio de Janeiro. It's absurdly cheap (18 reais from So Paulo and 30 reais from Rio -- $6 and $10 US respectively), comfortable, and has a great view of the valley as you ascend it.
  • Bring plenty of reais with you or a credit card. Most tourists there are from Brazil, so exchange offices are rare.
  • Campos is known for its clothing cottage industry, which makes great warm clothes, and its local sweets.
  • Mountain bikes and climbing equipment can be rented at stores around the major trails.
  • Try to learn some Portuguese. The notoriously beautiful Brazilian ladies you'll meet will be impressed.

  • Resources:
    http://www.ecoviagem.com.br/ecoturismo/def_ecoroteiro_brasil.asp?codigo=7&codigo_secao=38
    http://www.camposdojordao.com/id_conteudo.html?arq=id_guia3
    http://www.camposdojordao.com.br/ecoturismo.htm
    http://www.portaisdascidades.com.br/camposdojordao-sp.html
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