The spectacular island of Crete
| VITAL INFORMATION | |
| Population | 623,666 |
| Languages spoken | Greek, and Cretan Greek dialect |
| Currency | 1.00 Euro = 1.42 USD |
| Average temperature | Summer: 75F; winter: 57F |
| High season | July and August |
A boat ride south of the Greek mainland and the Athenian capital, Crete is an island paradise that combines Hellenic hospitality with mythology, Mediterranean cuisine, and endless sandy beaches. Boasting a rugged landscape that complements its beaches with snow-capped mountains, fertile valleys and deep ravines, Crete is a land of fresh fish, olive groves and ocean vistas.
It should also be mentioned that Crete has shifted its stance toward Caribbean mega-tourism over the past few decades. And while a plethora of pensions, villas and studios remain to be rented, there is now a multitude of luxury resorts full of the usual pitfalls of grand-scale accommodations. First of all, due to the sprawling nature of resorts, many of them have been developed on beaches that lie outside their nearby city center. And although the ocean vistas are generally spectacular, the quality of food and service can sometimes get lost in the transition from local charm to the herculean proportions of resorts.
This may be especially true on Crete, because the character of Greek life flourishes in its cafés, taverns and casual restaurants. In these places, you may find rudimentary English, but the relaxed character of the locals should seduce you into drinking espresso and smoking cigarettes with the men who spend their time chewing the fat while sitting on stoops. This scene can, of course, be found in any Greek village, but the Delphic oracle has decreed that the Venetian architecture and narrow, quaint streets in Chania should be your home base.
Day 1: Chania
The first thing to know about Crete is that, unlike other Greek islands such as Corfu, Santorini or Mykonos, it is a very large island that necessitates renting a car. Of course, you first need to fly into Athens, where you can transfer onto one of three daily flights to Chania (Hania), Crete’s second largest city. Once in this old Venetian port city, be sure to have a reserved car waiting for you. Again, because of Crete’s size and the variety of its scenic and cultural landscape, a vehicle really is the best way to avoid being at a standstill.On the drive into town, don’t miss the chance to stop at Nykterida, one of Crete’s finest restaurants. With traditional Cretan music playing three nights a week, Nykterida is located between the airport and Chania. Built into the mountainside, the sleek white structure looks down on the Mediterranean and features an extensive menu of fresh and local delicacies. Be sure to acquaint yourself with the Cretan appetizers: The Cretan pie (with avocado, pastourma, yogurt, and arugula) and fried eggplant (with smoked pork and goat cheese) are both otherworldly. For the main course, try either the lamb kebabs or the pork tenderloin (take the one stuffed with chestnuts, raisins and smothered in chestnut sauce). After passing on dessert, you’re ready to wind your way down the mountains and into Chania.
As you drive into town, head towards the Old Port, where you’ll find the Casa Leone Hotel looming over the banks of the harbor. The newly-renovated hotel is a 600-year-old Venetian building, and its design epitomizes the Venetian architecture that remains a part of the city’s identity long after 400 years of Renaissance-era Venetian rule (1204-1645).
Overlooking Chania’s harbor, the Casa Leone’s French doors open onto a beautiful terrace in the heart of the Old Port’s nightlife. And if that’s not enough, its four-poster beds are the stuff of queens’ dreams. The room aside, the Casa Leone is also centrally located, allowing you to wander through the town’s streets and back alleys, where narrow corridors and small bridges careen through the city. In these alleyways, you can discover some of the best shops, cafés and taverns Chania has to offer.
If, on the other hand, you’re looking for a seaside resort, the Creta Paradise Beach Resort is on the nearby Gerani Beach, and the grounds are beautifully landscaped in the style of a Mediterranean villa. Equipped with all the modern resort amenities, the resort is located a little less than seven miles from the center of Chania, and its sublime landscaping really sets it apart from newly built competitors. And if you happen to visit during the summer, sea turtles lay their eggs on the Gerani Beach from May to June; in August, the eggs hatch and the babies take off into the sea.
Day 2: Road trip to Knossos
First things first: If you decide to treat Day 2 as the day for a road trip to explore the island, you’ll want some quality breakfast fare to start you out on the right path. On the corner of the main square, in the Old Harbor, the Remezzo Café opens at 7 a.m. and is a picturesque little spot with cushy chairs. In the center of the market’s morning action, Remezzo is a very good little pastry spot to help fuel the day.After meandering your way out of Chania, the drive to Knossos is a good two hours long, but it will give you a firm sense of the landscape as you travel up into mountains and down to beaches. Along the way, be sure to stop everywhere you can. Crete, after all, is an island that begs to be discovered.
After Remezzo’s hearty omelet and a crisp arugula salad, you should be ready to head inland to the geographical center of Crete, where the refurbished Palace of Knossos stands. Nearly 4,000 years old, The Palace of Knossos is so old, in fact, that it was erected before Jesus stood up and crossed God’s mind. And yet this palace of mazes was built and rebuilt and still stands for Minoan civilization.
As legend has it, Knossos even inspired the mythical tale of the Minotaur’s Labyrinth. With rooms of all shapes and sizes, the floor plan is as puzzling as a Greek myth. The word in the corridors of Knossos, however, is that the famed architect Daedalus built the labyrinthine palace to imprison The Minotaur -- a beast with the body of a man and the head of a bull -- who was pacified every nine years when the city of Athens would send six maidens and six youth into the Labyrinth, as a tribute to King Minos. So they say.
Needless to say, there are numerous stories to be uncovered at Knossos. But time is tight, and you need to start planning your evening. After the drive through the Cretan countryside, make your way back to the center of town, where the Antigone Restaurant and the Amphora Restaurant are two prime seafood options. If you choose Antigone, order the divinely stuffed crab!
After dinner, you may want to relax at a quayside café or by returning to the hotel. If, however, you’re in the mood for love (or just feel like cutting a Greco-Roman rug), there are two clubs on Kondilaki, a street that heads away from the center of the harbor: El Mondo and Nota Bene, two of the more popular spots in the city.
Day 3: Beaches of Matala & Agia Galini
Let’s say you’re nursing something of a hangover on Day 3 and need to indulge yourself in some heavy-duty relaxation. For your morning coffee, try hitting Meltemi, at the far west corner of the new harbor, where men and women, the young and the old, the tourist and the local all come together in holy harbor java time.Now, being as you are in the northwestern region of Crete, two of the island’s best beaches lie directly south, in the small villages of Matala and Agia Galini. The mid-island route you’ll take provides spectacular scenery, and since you’re spending the day, start by exploring the infamous caves of Matala. During World War II, German paratroopers attacked Crete and used these artificial caves to store materials, but they were taken back by '60s hippies who slept in the caves and glorified its beaches.
Down the westward road a little jaunt, Agia Galini is your lunch and beverage break. At The Taverna Medusa, a century-old stone-walled building serves scrumptious snails in garlic sauce with garlic bread. Next door, staring right back at you, is the Bar Medusa. And the best advice for this scene is to let the afternoon drift away with you and melt with the shifting sun. The day is done.
cretan daydream
Crete is a land of relaxation and wonder -- they go together like bumps on a log. The sand is fine, and the water is turquoise and full of intriguing marine life. So grab your bathing suit and plan your escape. Chania may be your starting point, but Crete will decide where you end up.Resources:
http://gogreece.about.com/od/cretenightlife/a/tavernamedusaag.htm?once=true&
http://www.agia-galini.com/home/
http://www.explorecrete.com/index.html
http://www.tour-crete.co.uk/knossos.htm
http://www.greeklandscapes.com/greece/crete/knossos.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g189415-Chania_Crete-Hotels.html
www.chania.com/
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crete
http://www.greecetravel.com/crete/
http://www.holiday-truth.com/resortreport.php?region=Crete
http://www.nykterida.gr/
http://www.cretaparadise.gr/
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