| Population | 5,500,000 |
| Language spoken | Spanish |
| Currency | Chilean Peso (CLP); 1 Peso = (appr.) 0.0017 USD |
| Average temperature | Summer: 77°-85°F; Winter: 57°-64°F |
| High season | September to November |
A country of amazing geographical extremes and a rich, traditional culture in the midst of a lively revolution, Chile is a South American gem. From the dry deserts in the north to the looming Andes at Chile's midpoint and the frozen territory of Tierra del Fuego in the south, there are several ways to see this unique republic. Even the worldliest traveler is taken aback by Chile's multitude of cultural, natural and historical delights.
Since the country's capital encompasses many of these wonders, Santiago serves as a great gateway for tourists bound to visit the rest of the country. A couple of days in the growing metropolis will prove that Santiago is just as remarkably original as the rest of this coastline-hugging country. Since interesting beach and ski resorts near the capital entice tourists away from the city as well, we will take a look at a three-day itinerary that starts in Santiago and visits one of the surrounding area's most popular resorts.
Note: All prices are in U.S. dollars.
Day 1: Stroll in Santiago
From the outset, travelers considering a visit to Santiago should know that although the city can be very happening at night, this vacation will be just as much a cultural, gastronomic and sight-seeing eye-opener as it will be a party-filled visit. The unique polarities that Santiago possesses are just too cool to pass up.As far as accommodations are concerned, Santiago offers the standard multitude of hotels common to any major commercial city. The modern San Cristobal Tower is a comfortable choice where the $205 minimum rate per night means you're getting a prime room. What's more, it's located a few minutes' walk from the interesting Providencia neighborhood.
A cheaper alternative close by is the Hotel Neruda, where very nice North American-style room rooms go for $90 per night.
a walk in the park
Wherever you decide to stay, the Parque Metropolitano should be your first destination in Santiago. This massive park surrounds Cerro San Cristobal, the city's mountain, which looks more like a hill when compared to the surrounding Andes summits. Still, the cable car or funicular ride to the top is a little gut wrenching but certainly worth it, as it provides a spectacular view of the city you're about to explore. By eyeing the panoramic view, you'll also get a good sense of how Santiago is divided into distinct barrios , each one boasting its own personality. In fact, ask Santiagans where they're from and they are most likely to quote the name of their barrio , not Santiago itself.Take the funicular down (it costs about $1.50) and you'll find yourself in Barrio Bellavista, Santiago's bustling "Parisian" quarter. The area gets its bohemian character from native son and Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda. The late eclectic poet lived in La Chascona, meaning "tangle-haired woman," which referred to his wife; now the abode serves in part as a museum, housing Neruda's interesting collection of art. Admission, including a guided tour in English, costs under $5.
Stay in Bellavista for lunch, as there is a large selection of restaurants to choose from. Azul Profondo is a superb seafood restaurant where you can get fresh sea bass and swordfish a la plancha (served sizzling on cast-iron platters) on the cheap. Main courses run between $7 and $13.
For something more typically South American, try the Peruvian and Chilean fare at Cocoa. Try the ceviche , a fish dish with a lemon juice base, or a shrimp-stuffed filet with bacon. Sure, the combinations are eclectic, but it's worth it. Don't forget to order a pisco sour, an alcoholic beverage with strong white grape liquor, lemon juice, an egg white, and bitters.
discover downtown
After strolling through Bellavista's hip streets lined with pastel-colored homes and loads of bars and restaurants, cross the Rio Mapocho -- the river that runs east-west through Santiago -- and head for Santiago Centro. The historical downtown core is roughly triangular in shape and is bordered by the Ro Mapocho, the Alameda and Via Norte Sur. Highlights on this walking tour include the Estacin Mapocho, the hulking train station turned cultural center that is worth a quick look if only for the sheer size of the building. The Catedral Metropolitana, completed in 1780, is a beautiful city block-long cathedral that cannot be ignored. Admission is free.The highlight of central Santiago is the Mercado Central, where fruit and vegetable hawkers work alongside fishmongers and create a lively spectacle for all to see. It's at this market that you'll see how truly diverse the people of Santiago are; people of varied ethnic backgrounds, both native and foreign, populate this metropolis.
the rhythm of the night
With your stomach growling from the delights at the market, it's time for dinner. Take a cab to Picada Ana Maria, a classic Chilean restaurant with a simple, quaint atmosphere that charms all who enter. Traditional food includes dishes of venison, boar or pheasant, and at $7 to $12 per main course, you're getting an amazing deal right in the heart of downtown Santiago. Remember to get the waiter's recommendations on a fine local wine, which Chile is famous for. Also, note that Chileans dine as late as 11 p.m., so in order to get the best service and avoid looking like a real tourist, try to adhere to the same schedule.To top off your night, you can head back to Bellavista and visit Heaven, a trendy club that only real starts getting lively around 1 a.m. and stays open until 6 a.m. Admission is about $7. If you want something more relaxed, try Off the Record, a self-described "bohemian" pub, or El Perseguidor, a live jazz club.
Day 2: Explore the livelier side of Santiago
With a big lunch being a more popular meal than breakfast, you should opt for a hotel breakfast before heading out to explore more of Santiago.Having seen the downtown and Bellavista areas yesterday, it is time to see what Santiago's other three main areas -- Barrio Brasil, Nunoa and Providencia -- have to offer. The borough of Providencia should be first on the list, as it is the most northerly of the three, and provides a good start to the day with its chic boutiques and art galleries. Stroll Avenida Providencia to find the latest Chilean fashions and the coolest South American art.
At the junction of Providencia and Suecia avenues, you'll find gringolandia, or "little America," named so due to its resemblance to U.S. commercial centers. If this area strikes too close to home, ignore the American eateries and head to Astrid y Gastn, a top-rated restaurant with an international menu. Thanks to the favorable exchange, you can enjoy fine food like glazed pork or honey-basted tuna at fair prices. Main courses are between $10 and $15.
an urban oasis
You can make use of Santiago's modern subway system to get to your next borough, the busy district of Nunoa. The system is very modern and affordable, as fares average about $0.75 per ride. As you'll notice immediately after you emerge from the metro, uoa is an oasis amidst the urban sprawl that has taken over Santiago.Funky bourgeoisie homes and tree-lined streets are the norm, as are open-air markets selling all kinds of goods. Plaza Nunoa is the focal point; you'll see the Universidad Catlica, a theatrical venue, as well as several restaurants where you may want to stop for a beer and snack.
Rounding out your tour of Santiago's coolest quarters is a stop in Barrio Brasil, an old neighborhood west of Va Norte Sur, southwest of downtown. There are many pedestrian-friendly streets here and most lead to Plaza Brasil, a beautifully landscaped square highlighted by the neo-Gothic Basilica del Salvador. Another Gothic building is Club Colo Colo -- crane your neck to check out the dozens of gargoyles perched on the facade.
feeling hot, hot, hot
As the sun sets, it's time to scope out the ladies of Santiago. Get a reservation at Agua, one of the hippest spots in town. Its fusion fare helped it to be named one of Conde Nast Traveler's Best New Restaurants, and this, coupled with its minimalist design, attracts only the cream of the Chilean crop. Reflecting Chile's own pride in seafood, Agua has some amazing seafood dishes, including a tuna-and-king-crab dish that features a delectable avocado and shrimp relish. It is here that you'll see, quite literally, the beauty of Santiago's diversity: dark-skinned ladies of all ethnicities relaxing in the chic atmosphere.If it still too early to hit the clubs, you must visit Baron Rojo, a coffee shop with an incredible twist. Waitresses here serve you wearing nothing but a thong and a lacy bra, and thanks to this, the atmosphere can get pretty lively. Chill out in this caf, located in Providencia, until after 1 a.m. At this time, your destination should be Boomerang, a three-story club famous for its busy dance floor, located not too far from the "revealing" caf. It is often rated as the best place to catch some tail in all of Santiago, so take full advantage.
Day 3: Praise Valparaiso
As Santiago is one of the few cities in the world that is driving distance from both beach and ski resorts, you have plenty of choices for day trips. One of the most popular is a visit to Valparaiso, a city that is even more bohemian than Santiago's quarters and is filled with cobblestone streets, markets and artisans. In fact, thanks to its natural surroundings and unique architecture and layout, Valparaiso was declared a World Heritage Site in 2003.Getting there is quite simple: comfortable buses leave Terminal Alameda -- one block from the Universidad de Santiago subway stop -- about every 15 minutes. The ride costs $8 round trip and takes about an hour and 15 minutes. You'll arrive at Valparaiso's bus terminal at Avenida Pedro Montt and, from there, it's a good idea to take a taxi into town.
You can head to the 19th century Customs House, a standout colonial building at the north end of town. You'll realize from the get-go that Valparaiso is rough around the edges; a poorer town that attracts people for its charm, not for its bright lights and clean streets. What draws people in is the architecture -- many of the angular homes are built right into the surrounding mountains -- as well as the meandering caf-lined streets and notoriously raucous nightlife.
head for the hills
From the Customs House, you can take one of Valparaiso's famous funiculars to the top of the hills. At $0.10 per ride, cost is not the worry when riding up the contraption; it's safety. The Ascensor Artillera was built in 1893 and provides a wobbly ride to say the least. Herein lies the allure of Valparaiso though, and I highly suggest you pay the fare for the trip.At the top, you'll get a spectacular view of the city, including a panorama of Valparaiso's busy port, and you'll be able to stroll Paseo 21 de Mayo, a fabulous elevated pedestrian walkway.
When you are finished admiring Valparaiso from afar, double back passed the maritime museum and either take the funicular back down, or if the prospect of riding a century-old machine down a steep hill scares you, start walking down the path that begins at the lone caf. Now you can see the city up close and personal. Start by hailing a taxi and heading for El Cinzano, a great lunch spot where the chorrillanas , a specialty dish that mixes steak, eggs, onions and French fries, has been served to literary types for decades.
see the prat port
After cruising through Valparaiso's narrow cobblestone streets, head for Chile's principal port. The hustle and bustle of the whole waterfront area is a nice contrast to the quiet hilly Valparaiso suburbs that you left before lunch. Muelle Prat is the redeveloped pier and market area where you'll be able to mingle with the locals and see what all the fuss over traditional handicrafts is all about.At the edge of the wharf lies Plaza Sotomayor, one of Valparaiso's coolest squares. Here you can scope out the city's colorful houses and search for the Concepcin lift, a funicular that leads to Valparaiso's most famous restaurant. As night falls and all the walking makes you hungry, it's time for dinner. Caf Turri mixes international cuisine with traditional Chilean dishes, offering an amazing 24 ways of preparing such delights as albacore tuna and sea bass. Take in the great elevated view and don't hesitate to order appetizers and dessert, as main courses are only $5 to $15.
You are now overdue to experience Valparaiso's famous nightlife. Ride down the funicular and hail a cab to Ecuador Street, the most popular strip in the city. You'll find a few clubs there, but you're most likely to find the best time at the bars, which are always packed. Try Bar Azul if you're with a lady friend and want a dim yet still very busy pub. There's also Bar Emile Dubois, one of the more rowdy places around. You're best bet is to bar hop and experience a few of Valparaiso's best nightspots.
When you've had enough, head back to the bus terminal and the bustling metropolis of Santiago.
tips for the trip
Resources:
http://www.chipsites.com/ww/chile_orgs_and_culture.html
http://www.amazonadventures.com/santiago.htm
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/south_america/chile_and_easter_island/obt.htm#vinadelmar - Chile and Easter Island
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/south_america/santiago/ - Santiago
http://weather.yahoo.com/climo/CIXX0020_f.html
http://www.hotelpoint.com/content/hotel_info/San+Cristobal+Tower,+Santiago--code--69487.html
http://www.hiptravelguide.com/hotel-92206.html
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/santiago/ - Santiago
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/valparaiso/ - Valparaiso
http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/drinks/cocktail/piscosour-chile.htm
http://www.contactchile.cl/en/chile-santiago-restaurants.php
http://www.joeskitchen.com/chile/travel/metro.htm
http://www.eonline.com/On/Wild/Guides/Chile/
http://www.fundacionvalparaiso.org/pags/noticias/site/pags/20030703104632.html
http://www.spanishabroad.com/prog_semester/valparaiso/val_nightlife.htm
Santiago Travel Guide
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