| VITAL INFORMATION | |
| Population | 1,600,000 |
| Languages spoken | German, English |
| Currency | Euro (EUR); 1 EUR = (appr.) 1.2 USD |
| Average temperature | Summer: 73F-77F; Winter: 27F-37F |
| High season | May through October; mid-December through early January |
An intriguing mix of classic and contemporary culture awaits you in Austria. The country known for composers like Schubert and Mozart has also given us modern notables like the musician Falco and Arnold Schwarzenegger. So whatever your interests, the capital city of Vienna -- Wien to the locals -- will make an outstanding three-day holiday.
Gemtlichkeit is a term you should know right at the outset. It's best defined as the spirit and converging of all things good: food, drink, people, and atmosphere. It's the vibe Austrians live by, and they'll be more than happy to include the respectful traveler. So as a respectful traveler, remember Austria is proudly independent of Germany, its neighbor to the north.
To put it in perspective, think of the Canadian/U.S. relationship: neighbors, but independent. And unlike North America, history here is measured on a slightly larger scale. After all, Vienna was first settled by the Celts around the year 500BC. That's a lot of history to cover in three days, so let's get started.
All prices are listed in U.S. funds.
Day 1: An artful day
With just three days to cover such a vibrant city, you'll want an Innere Stadt (inner city), First District hotel. Hotel Royal will suffice nicely. It's in a prestigious area of old Vienna right by St. Stephen's Cathedral (site of Mozart's wedding and his funeral). Mind you, this doesn't have to be a cash-killer, as you'll find with many of the Innere Stadt accommodations. Rooms range $168 to $210, with suites still reasonable at just under $300.
Hotel Royal also has a decent enough restaurant, but get some fresh air and head outdoors. You'll soon be greeted with the "wrst" smells. That would be grilled sausage from a Wrstelstand, specifically, Ehrenreich's in Naschmarkt across from Piccini. Hot dog stands in the States have nothing on these guys for fast, delicious and cheap grub.
For the afternoon, you'll need to get around. Innere Stadt can be covered on foot in an afternoon, but during our stay we'll cover more ground. The 72-hour Vienna Pass offers unlimited rides on Vienna's excellent public transportation system of trams, subways and buses. The $20 charge also gives you discounts at attractions, including Vienna's inner museums.
With that in mind, it's time to get artful. MuseumsQuartier is a complex of modern art you can't miss. Are history and historic art more to your liking? Soak it in at Kunsthistorisches Museum and Liechtenstein Museum.
At this point, head back toward your hotel, and drop by a kaffeehaus for a late-day caffeine fix and a bite to eat. It's a very Viennese thing to do, and you'll need a refresher before the evening's events.
While we're doing very Viennese things, make the day complete by attending an opera. Based on your budget, you could go all-out for the Staatsoper. Depending on the event and seating, tickets begin around $40 and can be as high as $375. The budget-friendly Volksoper still offers a quality evening for substantially less. The cheap seats are literally just a couple bucks. Even the best are $80-ish, depending on the performance. Whichever venue you pick, remember to rent a tux; your suit won't cut it (your hotel concierge will be happy to help you get your fancy duds). Also, keep in mind the opera off-season is July and August.
If you would rather be an active participant, try a formal ball. This is another Vienna tradition worth considering, especially as a romantic way to spend an evening. Because there are so many events from November through June, ticket prices vary from around $90 to over $500.
Day 2: To air is human
Your second day in Vienna could also mean a very full stomach. Austrians make it a point to have a meal or two (or five or six) throughout the day. Frhstck, the first breakfast, is little more than coffee and bread. But take heart: Mid-morning's gabelfrhstck (snack breakfast), if you choose to partake, is more substantial.
Day two also gives us a chance to fill our lungs with fresh air. Vienna has countless outdoor activities, mostly in Leopoldstadt. Here, the Prater amusement park will give you a chance to unwind -- especially with a spin on the Riesenrad (Giant) Ferris Wheel. Rent a bike from any of the several shops around the Prater for around $30 to cruise the park and the Danube Canal with the locals.
Mittagessen (lunch) is a short mile from the Prater at Altes Jgerhaus. It's not as busy as other restaurants, the atmosphere is authentic and the food is outstanding. The name of the game is, well, game -- like venison and pheasant when they're in season.
The schnitzel and seafood are must-tries too. It's all heavy fare -- lunch is traditionally a big meal in Austria -- but with main courses no more than $20, it's worth risking cramps as you slowly pedal back to the Prater on a full stomach.
Once you get back to the First District, be sure to cover any Innere Stadt spots you missed yesterday and walk off that great lunch.
We'll leave again for dinner and hit the huerigen (wine taverns). When Joseph II allowed vineyards to operate wine taverns in the late 1700s, the Viennese didn't hesitate to leave the city for their glasses of grape. A hueriger escaped the taxes of wines sold within Vienna. Today, over 30 huerige offer locals and appreciative travelers young and aged wine, usually served as a gespritzt (with sparkling water), plus a food buffet for dinner. Tonight, we'll make it Weingut Reinprecht. The schnitzel and the Schrammel music can't be missed, and for less than $35 it's a bargain.
Day 3: It's all good and Welles
Last night's wine and good company may cause you to miss the first breakfast, but hopefully not your mid-morning gabelfrhstck from the hotel's restaurant. Our last day will have us on the move again, and we're going to see a man about a horse. Go to the Spanische Reitschule, the centuries-old Spanish Riding School and behold the performance of the Lipizzan Stallions. For 300-odd years, the school has trained the all-white horses to step and dance more gracefully than many humans. March through December (with the exception of July and August) is the time to go.
Our last mitagessen will seem a little cuckoo for good reason. When you see the gold cuckoo above the door to Zum Kuckuck, you'll know you're in for a treat. The owners go out of their way to make you feel welcome. The goulash is worth a go, but the seafood and game are standouts. Main courses will set you back no more than $35.
With your appetite satisfied for the foreseeable future, it's naturally time to fill the sewer. 1949's The Third Man, starring Orson Welles and Joseph Cotton, was filmed here. And if you'll recall, the sewers made for a memorable chase sequence. To commemorate the film, you can take a guided tour of the now-defunct sewer areas seen in the film. Sound effects are piped in along the way, adding a certain element to the tour. Yes, it's cheesy, and we normally steer clear of guided tours, but it's also campy enough to subject yourself to mingling with the tourists. It will set you back about $9, and you can jump in on the half-hour tour, 9:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Monday through Saturday. If you don't speak German, English-narrative tours happen Wednesdays and Saturdays. If you need a refresher, the film is still played three times a week at Burg Kino theatre.
After the sewers, we'll clean up our act to don a jacket and tie. It's time to enjoy dinner in one of Vienna's premier restaurants: Mrwald im Ambassador in, of all places, the Hotel Ambassador. Chef Christian Domschitz's modern take on Viennese cuisine will leave a great lasting impression. The suckling pig with white cabbage dumplings are standouts, as are the Szegediner lobster and cabbage. Not surprisingly, these and other main courses are over $38, but one bite will quiet any objections.
Vienna's club and bar scene is anything but a snoozer. From cozy pubs to packed dance floors, take the U-Bahn (public transportation) to the Bermuda Dreieck (Bermuda Triangle), where the multi-genre watering holes call home. It's just south of the Danube Canal near St. Ruprecht's church. You'll have more than enough time to wander the joints, as a lot of them stay open until 4 a.m. or later, especially on weekends. Closer to the hotel on the way back, get your dance moves out of your system at Flex, constructed in a former subway tunnel. Covers vary depending on the club, or in the case of Flex, which DJ is spinning that night.
tips for the trip
- Ask for a vegetarian dish, if you don't feel like eating meat. Vegetarians and especially vegans may initially find it challenging to score meals to their liking in this meat-heavy culture. Ironically, McDonald's restaurants have meatless Gemuse Nuggets and Gemuse Macs. The V-crowd may also get lucky elsewhere by politely asking their servers for critter-free options.
- Don't wear out your gemtlichkeit. When you see an area designated as "stammtisch" in restaurants and bars, remember it is verboten to all but the regulars, which you ain't. Sit elsewhere, even if you have to wait for a spot to open.
- Restaurant bills will include a service charge, but this does not constitute an automatic gratuity. Tip 15% or better, preferably in cash.
- Experience a Vienna ball. The old-world tradition of balls is alive and well, with a dance card full of them from November to June. What may not seem like a good time at first, can actually make for a great evening. Events range from the renowned Opernball to the Ball of Bad Taste, so shake the rust off your waltz moves and rent a tux.
- Stay off the busy streets. As much as we hate to appear touristy and walk around with a map, Vienna has nearly 1,500 miles of streets. Some of the best shops, restaurants and clubs are off the main routes, hidden from tourists sticking to the arterial routes. Hit a newsstand for a detailed map published by Falk so you don't miss the must-sees.
- Leave the driving to others. You'll soon wonder if Boston's non-existent parking was inspired by Vienna. Considering the lack of spaces and stiff traffic fines, it makes perfect sense to pass on a rental car and get around on the excellent public transportation found here. You can purchase a three-day pass for $20, which buys unlimited rides and provides discounts at various attractions.
- Hold the fhn. This warm, southerly breeze phenomenon seems innocent enough when it arrives in fair weather, but it ends in rain. In the meantime, locals act as if the fhn is a full moon and their moods can be clinically described as "a little out of whack."
- Learn a few German expressions to get by. English is widely spoken in Vienna, but it doesn't hurt to know a little German. Even still, you may run into a slight barrier; the Austrian dialect is distinct and "German German" doesn't always translate completely. When you order your beer or wine, ask for it by size. A couple phrases to help: "Ein kleines Bier" is about 10 ounces. "Ein grosses Bier" is about 17 ounces. Wine is usually requested "Ein Achtel," about four ounces; or "Ein Viertel," about eight and a half ounces.
Resources:
Vienna Travel Guide
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