Though Montreal is the world's second largest French-speaking metropolitan area (big sis Paris is first), there is more to the city than French culture; much, much more. Dozens of different languages and dialects can be overheard in the vibrant streets, restaurants, and while sipping an espresso on the patio of a chic coffee shop. Make sure to bring an energetic attitude, a large appetite and an eye for some of the most exotic women in the world, to one of the most multicultural cities you'll ever encounter.
info prior to leaving
With, at most, a short stop in Toronto (Montreal's more Americanized cousin), getting there by plane is very simple. Since the city is the center of many international businesses, carriers accommodate the frequent influx of business people, which eases the task of finding a cheap ticket.Those who select to drive up the East Coast from New York or Boston will find the city easy to navigate, with a basic square grid of roads and highways outlining the main areas. For those who opt not to drive in Montreal's traffic (where right turns at red lights are still prohibited), taxis offer a flat rate of under $30 CAD to the downtown core from Dorval Airport, while public transportation is recognized as extremely efficient and cheap.
In order to blend in like a true bagel loving, fashionable, passionate, and uninhibited Montrealer, check out what a three-day trip in North America's hippest city can bring you. Allow me to set the scenario: It's almost summer and the city's various communities are eager to explore their city anew after spending way too many months hibernating during a long winter.
Day 1: Explore some old-time flavor
Reflecting Montreal's eye for the chic and unique, many conveniently located hotels are viewed not only as places to stay, but tourist attractions as well. For the fresh-looking boutique hotels, you will find what you are looking for in Old Montreal, though you'll pay a sizable amount for their lodgings. The experience, however, may outweigh the reservations you have about the cost, especially when you look at the interior of the Saint-Sulpice or the St. James in Old Montreal (the Rolling Stones rented out the entire building when they arrived for a recent concert).european treats
Providing you saw a hotel you liked in Old Montreal -- the city's historic district accentuated by cobblestone streets and calèches (horse-drawn carriages) -- it is highly encouraged to start out your tour by taking a walk along the old streets nearby. Old Montreal is a top tourist attraction and, as you walk along Notre-Dame Street, you'll see why. Looking down the narrow streets, you'll swear that time has stood still and you're actually in a European city from one hundred years ago. Continuing east along the street, you'll encounter many interesting stores and restaurants; even the building that houses McDonald's preserves the area's integrity.The first of several amazing sites you'll encounter will be the Notre-Dame Basilica. Modeled after the cathedral of the same name in Paris, it stands in beautiful contrast to the skyscrapers in the background. Take some time to tour the inside and, with its stained glass windows, it will be obvious why hometown legend Celine Dion chose to be married here.
time to check out the streets
On a nice day, this little meandering will impress upon you the divine architecture, eclectic stores and interesting people of Old Montreal. A calèche ride with your significant other will bring you around all the nice spots if your feet get tired. The Pointe-à-Callière Museum of Archeology and History is actually built around the city's ancient fortifications (circa 1642) and is certainly worth a look.Within Old Montreal, the Old Port remains the most attractive spot. As an important port city, this area is well developed and attuned to a traveler's needs. The tree-lined paths that wind along the waterfront make for a great stroll, bike or rollerblade; the latter two are available for rent. Make your way to Place Jacques-Cartier, a square where street performers, vendors and the people on terraces (the local name for a restaurant's patio) make the atmosphere extremely exciting. Soaking in the fun, laughs and relaxed attitude of the Montrealers who pass by, you'll no doubt be eager to finish with one Montreal staple (its Old City) and try another (its restaurants).
try some great food
For something new and already distinctly Montreal, try Cube, an internationally recognized restaurant located in the Hotel St. Paul, whose minimalist décor is almost as impressive as its market-fresh menu. Another local landmark undoubtedly worth consideration is Gibbys, perhaps the quintessential Montreal dining experience. Whether it's one of these two high-priced meals or something on a lesser scale, like the French cuisine of Old Montreal's Bonaparte, you'll be highly impressed.You cannot end your inaugural night in Montreal without trying out its crazy nightlife. Consider it a baptism by fire, and don't worry about the heavy dinner: nightclubs and bars close at 3am, so you'll have plenty of time to digest before the crowds start to arrive. Take your pick from a slew of nightclubs, lounges and bars, or try out one of each. Keep in mind that smoking is not prohibited in these places. Recommended spots include Club 737, which has a terrace high atop the Place Ville-Marie building on warm nights, and Newtown, a lounge/restaurant/club on Crescent Street (a street that hosts many nightclubs).
Day 2: The real spots
There is a lot to tackle in this full day ahead. As impressive as it may be, exploring Old Montreal and eating at one of the city's finer restaurants merely scratches the surface of what there is to do and see. Grab a Montreal bagel, one of the city's greatest contributions to breakfast, from St. Viateur bakery and top it with some smoked salmon, capers and red onions. After a breath mint, you're ready to hit the town.cool central
The main east-west downtown artery is Ste. Catherine Street. Starting out here is a great idea, as it is the heart of the downtown shopping district. Walk around, while taking notice of the fine women and the huge variety of stores. Among the recommended shopping centers are Simons, Les Cours Mont-Royal, Place Montreal Trust, Eaton Center, and Les Ailes de la Mode. Indulge in some shopping (remember the relatively weak Canadian dollar...) or, if you're the artsy type, walk east along Sherbrooke St. to check out the Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts) and the McCord Museum.Amidst the forest of skyscrapers and preserved old buildings are the campuses of highly-regarded English and French universities, whose students form the backbone of the city's nightlife and social scene. Though the prospect of lounging around or browsing in the downtown core is appealing, you must press on.
a new dining experience
If you feel famished after this early-to-late afternoon excursion, it is recommended you now try a Montreal tradition. Head to Schwartz's Delicatessen in the Plateau district (on St. Laurent Boulevard) and keep an open mind. The somewhat dingy restaurant and casual service will not prepare you for what is to come: the smoked meat sandwich of a lifetime! Since it is recognized as the penultimate serving of meat between two slices of rye bread (a hybrid of pastrami and corned beef sandwiches), you must try it. Eaten along with a black cherry cola, you'll be in heaven. And waiting in the long line and sitting next to total strangers for the sandwich will be completely worth it.scale the mountain
Surely by now you will have noticed a rather unique landmark uncommon in other cities. Mount Royal, or "The Mountain" as it is affectionately known, lies to the north and east of the downtown proper and is accessible by heading east on, appropriately named, Mount Royal Ave. Standing on its flank is the amazing St. Joseph's Oratory, as well as a lot of green space teeming with teens and twenty-somethings. The winding road up to the mountain peak offers an amazing view of the city, including the Olympic Stadium, where the main events of the 1976 Summer Olympics were held.chill with a beer
To cement your adoption as a Montrealer, you should take a stroll along St. Laurent Boulevard to scope out the best patios and bars. Known as "The Main," the street divides the downtown area into English (West) and French (East). Though the actual demarcation is hazy and there is much harmony between the two communities, St. Laurent is still the place to be. Restaurants like Buona Notte are optimum spots to see celebrities taking a break from filming in Hollywood's favorite new location, but, if you're still full from Schwartz's, you can relax on nearby Prince Arthur's cobblestone streets with a cool, yet potent, Canadian beer.If you've got a buzz going and want to hit the nightclubs once more, try out the Fire and Ice rooms of Tokyo, on the corner of St. Laurent and Avenue des Pins (Pine Avenue). If you're into simply relaxing, you'll have a chance to really get to know the Montreal people as they open up on the city's most popular street. It will be an opportunity to meet the most sociable and fun people in the city: French women! They're bilingual and if you've expanded your French vocabulary to more than just "voulez-vous coucher avec moi?" they'll be rather impressed.
Day 3: Fun and games on the islands
Perhaps a bit hung-over from the previous night's activities, you're allowed to sleep in a bit this morning. The late AM wake up will allow you to partake in another Montreal favorite: brunch. Numerous restaurants offer excellent brunch menus, including the Tour de Ville revolving restaurant atop the Delta Hotel; L'Avenue, a chic hidden gem on Mont Royal Avenue, in the Plateau; as well as Beauty's, which is where plenty of celebs stop by to grab a bite, also on Mont Royal Avenue.With a full belly, it's time to test Montreal's transit system. A Metro station (aka subway station) should always be nearby and, most impressively, it is connected to an amazing series of underground walkways that allow passengers to commute from one end of the city to another, without stepping out into the fierce winter cold. In fact, the Underground City is the longest in the world; you can shop, eat and watch movies without going outside -- very convenient if it's raining or snowing.
hop to the islands of fun
You can follow these underground passageways to the nearest Metro station. Consult a map and head for the yellow line; this short line goes from the Berri-UQAM stop under the St. Lawrence River to Parc Jean-Drapeau. Here, you'll be on one of Montreal's two small man-made islands made essentially for, well, fun. On Ste. Hélène Island you'll find the aforementioned park and La Ronde, a pretty well-rounded amusement park in the midst of being redone by Six Flags. On Notre-Dame Island, you'll find the world-class Casino of Montreal. Both islands boast beautiful biking trails and natural beauty galore: perfect for a nice summer afternoon.During festival time (more on this to come), the amazing Fêtes Gourmandes (loosely translated as "Food Festival") takes place here. It is an opportunity to sample all of Montreal's most interesting restaurants in one place. The Formula 1 Canadian Grand Prix is also on Notre-Dame Island, more specifically on the Gilles Villeneuve Circuit.
festivals anyone?
Though celebrities come in from all over North America for a peek of the world's best drivers, the city really comes alive during its famous Jazz Festival in late June and early July. After an afternoon on the two islands, it's a great idea to return to the downtown Ste. Catherine Street area to catch amazing bands doing free outdoor concerts all night long.For a quick meal during one of the outdoor events, try an artery-clogging poutine , a true Quebecois (pronounced keb-eck-wah) tradition. Served in most fast-food joints, including McDonald's, a poutine consists of french fries and cheese curds covered with piping hot gravy. Don't diss it until you try it: most travelers get hooked on this very popular treat.
If you happen to catch Montreal in its downtime between the Jazz Fest and its internationally known Just For Laughs comedy festival, it's a great time to check out the city's sleazier side. Montreal's unwholesome claim to fame is its strip clubs and, after sampling the ladies at Wanda's, Solid Gold or the higher-class Chez Parée, you might want to move down here permanently.
montreal: a real experience
Without having explored the cool Plateau district, seen a Montreal Canadiens hockey game, or visited the Olympic Park, it should now be obvious that Montreal is as unique a city as you'll ever get. The locals are friendly, fun and hospitable, not to mention pretty tolerant, considering the city consists of people originating from more than 80 different countries. Not only is this cultural harmony beautiful to witness, it culminates in an incredible variety of excellent restaurants. This, combined with a diverse nightlife and several summer festivals, makes Montreal a city to push to the top of your "must experience" list.summer festivals
Montreal is known for its large-scale summer festivals; these are the ones definitely worth checking out.Note: Dates vary annually.
1. Air Canada Grand Prix: Some of the best drivers in the world race around the Gilles Villeneuve Circuit. Grand Prix weekend attracts top celebrities and is an excuse for some of the best parties of the year.
2. Montreal International Jazz Festival: This renowned jazz fest takes place from June 26 to July 6, 2003, showcasing the world's best, from Norah Jones to Ray Charles. Free outdoor concerts are all the rage and go on through the night in the downtown core.
3. Just For Laughs: The comedy festival brings in top comics from all around, including Kevin James and Ray Romano. In 2003, the different galas will be held from the 10th to the 20th of July.
4. Montreal International Film Festival: A mini-Cannes, this display of great films from around the globe is being held between August 27th and September 7th, 2003. Big stars always come out to support their film premieres.
tips for the trip
Resources:
http://www.concierge.com/montreal/resources/neighborhoodguide/
http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/north_america/montreal/index.htm
http://www.montrealjazzfest.com/fijm2003/images/splash/intro.asp?flashPlugin=oui
http://www.grandprix.ca/index_eng.html
http://www.hahaha.com/splash/
http://www.ffm-montreal.org/fr_index.html
http://www.montrealvip.com/
Montreal Travel Guide
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