Go Beyond In Bangkok

VITAL INFORMATION
Population 9,000,000
Language spoken Thai
CurrencyThai Bhat (THB); 1 Thai Bhat = (appr.) .02 USD
Average temperature Summer: 83°-86°F; Winter: 80°-83°F
High season October to March

Bangkok is both the capital of Thailand and the world's unofficial capital of sin, sizzle and spice. The city is hot, the food is hotter and the women are hottest of them all. That's probably why Bangkok was one of the top spots for members of the U.S. Army to rest and relax during the Vietnam War.

Of course, there's more to this city of 9 million people than the weather and the women. The exotic "anything goes" nightlife is only one half of what Bangkok has to offer. The daytime features a veritable buffet of activities from the cultural to the athletic, all at rock bottom prices for those traveling on Western currencies.

Here's a three-day sample itinerary to get you started.

Day 1: Jet lag recovery, Bangkok style

If there's a bad part about Thailand, it's getting there. If you're coming from the U.S., you're looking at a long, cramped plane ride of about 20 hours, including a connecting flight in another Asian city. Upon arrival, no matter what time of day you land, you'll be greeted by hot and sticky weather.

So by the time you drop your luggage off, it'll be time to relax. Bangkok, with its bustling streets and loud atmosphere, may not seem like the place to chill out, but this is the country that invented Thai massage. Also known as the "lazy man's yoga," this form of massage emphasizes stretching to soothe aching muscles and promote health.
After you've had your massage, hop on a river tour boat. Rivers abound in Bangkok, and they make for a great afternoon activity. It's a relaxing way to get a sense of the sprawling city without being cooped up in a tour bus. For about 30 Bhat (about 75 cents US), you can catch an hour-long riverboat tour along the Chao Phraya river, which connects Bangkok with the neighboring province of Nonthaburi.

Rejuvenated from a relaxing afternoon, you'll find that after hours is when Bangkok really shines. Of course, in Bangkok, the phrase "after hours" is a bit of a misnomer, as it's a 24-hour city. And over these 24 hours, Bangkok offers everything from restaurants to bars to clubs. If you're feeling homesick already, grab some burgers and beers at the Hard Rock Caf on Siam Square (any cabby should know the way). If you're feeling more adventurous, enjoy a meal at V9, perched atop the 37th floor of the Sofitel on Silom Road. The food is good and the views are out of this world.

If you decide to sample the local cuisine, watch out for the chilies -- the smaller they are, the hotter they tend to be. Most waiters will warn you in advance, but be aware that even a typical staple like Thai fried rice can be quite spicy.

After dinner, grab a cab to Patpong, Bangkok's late-night district. You won't find a club scene like the one you know back home -- in fact, it's hard to distinguish between legitimate night clubs and sex clubs here -- but isn't that the point of traveling? What you will find might seem a little sleazy to you (prostitution is readily mixed with the city's regular social life). That doesn't mean that you have to partake, but you shouldn't feel compelled to sit in your room like a monk, either. Acknowledge that you're in a different culture -- different strokes for different folks.

Bars come and go in Bangkok, so get some local advice before heading out to make sure the one in your tour guide still exists. If you're in a pinch, here are some reliables that have been drawing crowds for years: The Londoner, which provides a great expat pub scene; Taurus Brew House, catering to the Thai society types; and Lucifer, a popular Patpong disco.

Like anywhere else in the world, weekend nights in Bangkok are the most fun. But this is a nonstop town, so don't worry about being out on a Monday night. If your bar or club is dead, just ask a cabby to take you to wherever's happening that night.

Day 2: Aqua-shopping & snake farms

Having relaxed and let off some steam, now you can make the most of the city. Sightseeing may not be your highest priority, but it would be a shame to come all this way and not take in a single temple. Morning, when it's coolest, is the best time to go check out one of Bangkok's many Buddhist temples.

Even in the center of the city, you'll have many temples to choose from. Try checking out Wat Phra Kaeo or Wat Pho (Wat means Temple). Admission prices seldom exceed 200 Bhat (about $5). It's important to wear pants (no shorts) and a shirt that doesn't show too much skin, and remember that you'll be asked to take your shoes off before entering the buildings.

In the afternoon, take a trip out to one of the city's many floating markets. They're a lot like our farmer's markets, but with one key difference: They float along the river's surface, so as to provide commercial goods to those living on the banks without road access. You can view the market by simply walking along the banks of the canal or, if you're keen, hop in a boat and get right into the middle of things -- it'll cost you about 10 Bhat per person (about 25 cents) to do so. Most markets are open during the mornings only.

Another option is to check out a snake farm, where trained handlers will show you all manner of deadly reptiles. The Pasteur Institute on Henri Dunant Road is actually a hospital run by the Thai Red Cross, but the Institute also has a large snake farm and runs demonstrations on venom extraction.

On your second night, go see something that you can only see in Thailand. The Thai people love sport, and one that's all their own is Thai boxing. You may not know the rules of this violent full contact sport, but, then again, you won't have to. By the end of a 5-round fight, it should be obvious who the winner is.

You can find Thai boxing, or Muay Thai , all over Bangkok. Venues will vary depending on the day of the week, but the Ratchadamnoen Stadium on Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue hosts events most nights of the week. Ticket prices can range up to 1,000 Bhat (about $25) for ringside seats.

After the fight, head back to the bar scene. You'll find that bars and clubs tend to be clustered together in Bangkok, so you might want to return to the same area but check out some different bars. If you want to cruise a new part of town, head for the Nana Entertainment Plaza. It's a slightly more upscale version of Patpong that caters more to expats than visitors. Think of it as a shopping mall filled with bars and clubs -- a bar hopper's paradise.

Day 3: Hit the links & some bargains

One of the best things about Bangkok is that it offers Western amusements and goods at local prices. For your last day in the city, it might be nice to play a few holes of golf. Visitors can expect to pay the equivalent of about $25 at many of Bangkok's courses, so, even if you're not an avid golfer, at those prices it's hard to pass up.

Cheap prices also come in handy when it comes time to pick up some souvenirs. Head to Silom Road or Siam Square and see what bargains you can find. Bangkok offers a wide range of traditional goods to suit any taste, from hand-carved wood pipes to silk linens (probably a better gift for her than you). But half the fun of taking home a Thai souvenir isn't the item itself, it's the shopping experience.

If you're shopping outside a department store, you'll be expected to haggle. Always keep a smile on your face during the negotiations (remember; it's not personal). Start by halving the quoted price and working up in small increments. If you can't reach a bargain, try walking away and see if the merchant will come down (most will).

While traditional souvenirs are always a nice way to begin Thai travel stories, Bangkok also delivers when it comes to more modern merchandise. You can find anything from cheap CDs and electronics gear to designer suits, all at big discounts. Keep in mind that Bangkok, like the rest of Asia, has a huge market for knockoff electronics.

Time to head for the airport and say goodbye to Bangkok. No, you didn't get to see everything that you wanted to, but that's just a good excuse to come back.

tips for the trip

  • Cabs in most cities work on meters. This isn't always the case in Bangkok, so always settle the price before you go.
  • Malaria is perhaps Bangkok's biggest health risk, so you may want to fill a prescription for some anti-malaria medication before leaving. It's also always a good idea to update your tetanus shot and check with your doctor before leaving.
  • Most Thais working in the tourism sector speak enough English for you to get by. But a few words in Thai can go a long way. Learn some common questions and phrases.
  • Leaving Bangkok costs money. You'll pay a departure tax of 500 Baht per person (just over $12) before you can board your plane.

  • Resources:
    http://www.lonelyplanet.com/destinations/south_east_asia/thailand/index.htm
    http://www.bangkok-city.com/attractions.htm
    http://thailandforvisitors.com/central/bangkok/bkk-temples.html
    Bangkok Travel Guide
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