Nestle Into Nice

VITAL INFORMATION
Population 342,000
Language spoken French
Currency Euro (EUR); 1 Euro = (appr.) 1.30 USD
Average temperature Summer: 74°-80°F; Winter: 42°-48°F
High season July to August

The vibrant capital of France's French Riviera, Nice boasts beautiful beaches and energetic nightlife in a historic and cultural setting not found in neighboring hotspots like Cannes and Monaco. The steadily-warm climate, abundant miles of beach and great restaurants make this city a perfect rest stop during a trip along France's Mediterranean coast. Three days during the calmer tourist month of June should give you enough time to experience Nice's delights before moving on to another coastal jewel, whether west to Cannes or east to Monaco.

Day 1: On the boardwalk, on the rocks

If Nice has a tourist heart, it's the Promenade des Anglais, a boardwalk overlooking the crescent-shaped beach and Mediterranean Sea. The name of this walkway translates to "promenade of the English," and is so named because it was built and paid for by a Brit in the Victorian era. The promenade is lined with palm trees, and always bustling with cars and pedestrians. On its northern side you'll find grand hotels and luxurious shops, and the beautiful water of the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) on the south.

Though you'll want to log a lot of time in the area around the Promenade des Anglais, it's recommended that you stay at least a couple of blocks north of the busy street. Sure, the hotels on the promenade are beautiful and staying at the Hotel Negresco -- a standout structure built in 1906 -- would be lovely. But doing so will cost a pretty penny, especially in an area where most of the prices are already jacked up for the heavy tourist traffic.

Still, you won't have to go too far from the beach to find reasonable prices. Hotel Le Grimaldi offers rather large but quaint rooms a few blocks from the water, and Hotel Gounod, located in the city's "musician's district," is affordable, quiet and offers a balcony with each room. For travelers looking for something a little off-the-wall, the Hi Hotel invites guests to stay in its conceptual rooms, where open bathrooms offer little privacy and the interior design is as funky as it gets.

Whether you choose a standard hotel or something more New Age, your destination after check-in should be the same: the beach. There are some who look down on Nice's beaches because they are filled with pebbles, not sand, but this shouldn't give you reason to fret. Pebbles make for a clean bed while you're basking in the sun, and you won't have to worry about itchy grains getting into every corner of your bag or crease of your shorts. Up your comfort level by buying a mat beforehand, available at many of the stores beachside.

Now that your qualms about pebbly beaches have been settled, choose a spot to bask in. Nice's crescent coast has at least seven public beaches, most of which are divided into free and pay areas. If you're willing to cough up the coin (in the range of 12 euros for a half-day and 15 for a full one), you'll have access to lounge chairs, parasols and showers. Other areas of the beaches are owned by hotels and accessible only to guests.

Unless you really need a parasol, there's no reason to not stick with the free beach area. This way, you'll see Nice's beauty for all it's worth -- and I'm not talking about the city's natural surroundings. I'm speaking, of course, of the beautiful ladies who take in the sun all day -- most of them topless, some of them nude. French, Italian and other European hotties dot the beach; most are uninhibited and quite unaware that people are, ahem, taking digital pictures of them.

Remember, however, that the good (fine ladies) often comes with the bad (old men wearing speedos). When it's time for a dip, you'll be swimming in some of the Cte d'Azur's warmest, bluest waters. Though it can get choppy at times, swimming in the Baie des Anges is simply awesome.

get ready for fine dining

Tan until you're brown like a true Cote d'Azur Frenchman, and then prep for dinner. Having saved your money by skipping on the private beaches and expensive hotels, you can now put your finances toward a nice meal. Check your watch before you go -- unless you want to dine in an empty restaurant, don't sit down until after 9 p.m.

As you're going upscale, check out Le Chantecler at Hotel Negresco or Le Melisande at the Hotel Palais Maeterlinck. Both these restaurants are smack in the middle of the Promenade des Anglais. For the hippest spot, check out Cafe de l'Horloge on Rue Felix Faure. Try the frog legs and ratatouille, a local specialty.

After dinner, it's time to party. Work off the wine and fine food by cruising the boardwalk, where you'll see young tourists relaxing on the beach with bottles of wine and couples enjoying the cool air and romantic atmosphere. For nearby nightspots, you have three choices. Chez Wayne's is a crazy spot, famous for instilling women with an urge to lift their tops. At Niel's Club, just off the east tip of the beach, you'll get a true Nice club experience. It'll cost you 10 to 15 euros at the door, but this fee usually gets you a drink, too. Finally, Le Ghost offers the plush sofas and the grooves of a different DJ every night.

Day 2: Old town and new hotspots

Your second day in Nice will bring you some culture in the coolest quarters the city has to offer. After a morning espresso and croissant, put on your walking shoes and head out the door. Go east along the Promenade des Anglais until it becomes the Quai des tats-Unis. As the road curves along the beach and disappears around a hill, you'll come to an old chapel. Climbing the stairs of the Misericorde Chapel is well worth it, as you'll be rewarded with a wonderful view of Nice's beach, the Baie des Anges and the city itself.

From this vantage point, you can see your next destination: Vieux Nice (Old Nice) and the pedestrian-only promenades beyond. Filled with narrow, meandering little alleys, busy shops and quaint restaurants, Old Nice has charm to spare. You can purchase creative souvenirs, eat a kiosks sandwich at one of several eateries or just get lost looking at the baroque, medieval and Genoese architecture.

If you like baroque churches, Old Nice is the place to be: the Sainte Rparate Cathedral in the town's main square is the highlight. Walk west from this point, perhaps stopping at Fenocchio's to sample some of the best ice cream on the planet, and head toward Cours Saleya and the Paillon gardens. The gardens separate the old and new town, while Cours Saleya is a bustling market area where locals and visitors browse through kiosks of all kinds.

Continuing west, you'll encounter Nice's historic area, though history doesn't really have anything to do with why this area is great for shopping. Along rue Massena, avenue Jean-Mdecin, rue de Verdun, and rue Paradis, there are dozens of cool clothing stores and pedestrian-only areas where walking around is half the fun. There's also a plethora of quality French restaurants in the area. Have a drink or snack outside, where you can people-watch and enjoy the warm air.

Shop more than you eat, though, because you'll want to save your appetite for later in the evening. For the remainder of the day, you should take advantage of your location and visit another big resort town. Cannes is only a 35-minute drive away, and is a great spot to eat and party for the night. Smaller than Nice but just as vibrant, the town is famous for its international Film Festival. You're going, however, to see why it's also a famous place to have fun.

what to do in cannes

Trains depart to Cannes from the Ville, Riquier and St. Augustin train stations. It takes about 25 to 40 minutes to get there, depending on the time of day, and will cost only 4 to 7 euros. After arriving at Cannes, take a taxi from the train station to the beachfront, where the action is. It will be more expensive than public transport but, if you're a crew of four or five, it's economical and hassle-free.

For dinner in Cannes, you'll have many choices. On Promenade de la Croisette, the famous boardwalk, you'll find many classy restaurants to choose from. You can go for excellent French food at Restaurant Felix -- but keep in mind that a reservation is essential here, and at most other fine places in Cannes. At La Pizza on Quai St. Pierre, however, no reservation is required and you'll find the greatest pizza in the world, bar none. Once you've had your fill, it's time to hit the clubs with the trendy and youthful.

Loft is a small but happening club tucked away on rue du Docteur Monod. Open only in the summer, it attracts young tourists who like to boogie down to hip-hop and dance. Dress to impress and then, just as Loft closes (between 2 and 3 a.m.), take a taxi to Love, an after-hours club just off the beach. Love is much bigger than Loft and plays host to some of the wildest dance parties you'll ever witness. Drinks are expensive at both clubs, but the experience is well worth the price.

When you're done dancing, grab a taxi on Promenade de la Croisette and head to the station for a morning train back to Nice.

Day 3: High culture hangover

You've tanned on the beach, checked out the topless babes, eaten like a king, and partied up a storm. Nice still has plenty of things to do and places to see. As a hangover may be haunting you, start the day off with a few hours of relaxation. Instead of sleeping in till the afternoon, drag yourself out of bed and stumble to the beach. There's nothing like the blue water and warm sun to cure the ill effects of a night of drinking.

Once you've chilled for a couple of hours, it's time to eat. For a light lunch, head back to the Cours Saleya, where you'll find markets offering all kinds of fresh fruits, meats and desserts. Fix your own little picnic and you'll feel the energy flowing back in no time.

Now that the body's taken care of, it's time to clear your head with a trip to Nice's two famous museums. Both Marc Chagall and Henri Matisse lived in Nice, and the city has honored both with their own museums. The Matisse Museum is located in the affluent Cimiez neighborhood, just north of the city center. Marc Chagall's works are at the Muse National Message Biblique Marc Chagall, only minutes away by taxi or a 20-minute walk south.

To start your wrap-up of this slow, relaxed day, return to the beachfront, where a proper dinner and a night in a pub or lounge in Old Nice is a great way to say goodbye to the French Riviera. Seafood is the way to go, and Le Grand Pavois is a great place to get it. Located on rue Meyerbeer, this spot is famous for its snapper, sea bass and bouillabaisse.

As the night falls, take one last tour through Old Nice. De Klomp and the Hole in the Wall are both lively pubs, but try to score a seat at the Bar des Oiseaux. This place puts on the "Spectacle en Niois," a show played out in local dialects, and is a popular spot to drink. Soak it all in, from the loud locals to the cozy surroundings of Nice's old town.

Perfect for the party lover, beach bum and the cultural-minded, Nice truly is a jewel on the Mediterranean. Days can be spent basking on its pebble beaches and in its warm waters, while evenings can be wasted away at great restaurants and nightclubs. There's no doubt that this nice town definitely does not finish last.

tips for the trip

  • If you're the sporting kind, bring or rent rollerblades; it's a great way to explore the Promenade des Anglais.
  • St. Jean-Cap-Ferrat, a neighboring town, is a prime oasis on the Cote d'Azur and certainly worth a visit.
  • If you didn't rent a car and want to pass on the expense of taxis, a bus route from the airport to the main train station runs on the half-hour. To visit other spots in the city, inquire at the central bus station on square General Leclerc.
  • When taking the train to Nice from
  • Paris (as is very common), you may find it easier to pass through Marseilles. The TGV high-speed trains are convenient but sometimes infrequent, so this route saves some time, despite its roundabout way.

    Resources:
    www.lonelyplanet.com
    www.frommers.com
    http://travel.yahoo.com
    www.10best.com
    www.jetsetting.net
    www.wcities.com
    Nice Travel Guide
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