| VITAL INFORMATION | |
| Population | 116,234 |
| Languages spoken | Spanish |
| Currency | Euro (EUR); 1 Euro = (appr.) 1.208 USD |
| Average temperature | Summer: 86F; Winter: 61F |
| High season | May through August |
Ask a seasoned traveler to mention a favorite Mediterranean getaway and they'll probably mention Greece, Italy or the French Riviera. But a little further west lies Marbella, Spain, on the Costa Del Sol in the country's Andalusian region.
As the territory's name implies, there's plenty of sun -- about 320 days' worth per year. And while it may not be the first destination that comes to mind, wealthy Northern Europeans with leisure in mind and euros to burn have flocked here for over 50 years. Some feel Marbella's glory days are over, but you wouldn't know it from the volume of visitors or decadent offerings. Frommer's quotes a local's summation for Marbella's continued appeal: "Rich people come here because other rich people come here."
Spring through summer is high season and, while invariably busy, is really the time to visit. Coming before February means you'll miss Carnival and, by the same token, many attractions close or have very limited hours in the non-peak periods.
Let's take a look at this "other" Mediterranean hotspot. While opulence abounds, travelers on more modest budgets can enjoy Marbella as well. When possible, we'll look at options covering both ends of the spectrum.
Prices are approximated and are listed in U.S. dollars unless noted otherwise.
Day 1: Bad sand, good sand
Your three-day base camp in Marbella can be moderately priced or majestic; in a tourism-heavy area like this, there are plenty of options. For our visit, we'll look at a few hotels within the city. Beginning around $60 per night, you can stay at places like the Baviera, El Faro, Marbella Inn, and Princesa Playa (mind you, "playa" in Spanish means "beach;" it's not pronounced "play-a" like we hear in North America -- although you will likely see some playas on the playa).
We don't anticipate a lot of in-room time, but if you insist on shelling out cash for nicer accommodations, Marbella will not disappoint. Look to the Gran Hotel Guadalpin, Puente Romano, Rio Real, Villa Padierna, and Westin La Quinta for rooms starting around $150 up to the $1,100 range. Renting a villa is another option, but the more desirable units are in high demand during busy season, plus many require a minimum one-week stay.
After you've found a place, grab some sunscreen and get ready to golf. Marbella offers more courses than diehard duffers can cover in three days, but we'll still do a respectable 36 holes during our stay. For today, head for Santa Clara; this coastal course is a nice 18-hole, par 71 choice for around $130, and though it doesn't come cheap, this isn't a shabby municipal course bordering a freeway either.
After the links, it's time to answer your hunger. Head back into the city and do as the locals do: Grab a bite and a drink at a tapas bar. Tapas, or appetizers, are a nice way to sample authentic foods without making a big meal out of it. There are probably as many tapas bars in Marbella as there are Starbucks in Seattle, so you won't need to look too hard. Unlike Starbucks, you can enjoy tapas and a drink for $5 to $10.
Now that you've had a bite, it's time to hit a playa along the Golden Mile (the name is a little misleading; Marbella actually has 24 beaches that stretch out over 16 miles). Selecting the right beach really comes down to your preferences on view, crowd level and sand color -- you can ponder this over a beer from one of the numerous beachfront bars.
Around the downtown Promenade area, the golden sands of the La Fontanilla & El Fuerte beaches are popular. That could either be a plus or a minus, because they're both packed on any given sunny day. With its fine brown sand, Puenta Romano often draws its crowd from the neighboring hotels. Likewise, the hotels' security guards maintain a presence, which can be comforting to strangers in a strange land. Nagueles' gray sand is usually crowded, albeit with more upscale bodies from Marbella's finer hotels. Nagueles, Casablanca and Venus are also good places for water sports. El Pinillo, Vivora and Las Canas are less ostentatious and less populated; while Las Canas is also favored by divers.
fine dining in marbella
So you played 18 holes then stretched out in the sand. Thinking of a shower, a change of clothes and an early dinner? Not so fast. That's not the way it works in Marbella; late afternoons and early evenings are dead. You may as well take this opportunity to recharge a little and catch a nap at your hotel. Only clueless tourists amble about like zombies with fanny packs, wondering why they can't get fed (there's some delicious irony in that zombies and clueless tourists both need brains, no?).
Because of the multi-national crowd it attracts, Marbella's restaurants span the globe with their menus. But like most vacations, it's best to sample authentic, local flavor; so for your first evening try dining at La Tirana. This is a tasty choice for Spanish cuisine -- especially from the local Andalucian region -- with main courses priced at a budget-friendly $25 or less. If you'd rather go for international cuisine, hit La Hacienda. Main courses here range from $22 to $29, or you can select from their fixed-price menu for around $60.
Day 2: Great views
One good morning of golf deserves another, so today we'll head for Golf Rio Real. Like yesterday's outing to Santa Clara, Rio Real offers breathtaking Mediterranean views throughout its 18-hole, par 72 course. The fees are similar at about $110, though Rio Real's charges do not fluctuate based on day and season like Santa Clara's.
To curb your hunger, try another tapas bar in town and then it's time for a one and a half-hour bus trip to one of Europe's most spectacular sights: The Rock of Gibraltar.
For about $13, you can purchase a combination ticket from the Upper Rock Nature Preserve, granting access to the cable cars and points of interest along the way. You can tour various caves, tunnels and castle ruins. But if time becomes an issue, at least take in the Rock's view and the antics of the Barbary apes (actually monkeys) that have made the Rock their home for centuries.
Head back to Marbella and chill in your hotel for a while because our day of great views is far from over. Tonight's dinner options begin with Andalusian fare for $11 to $23 a plate at Casa de la Era. If you've had your fill of local tastes, Italian and International cuisine is king at La Meridiana. Here you'll pay between $19 and $56 for main courses or $64 for the tasting menu that will not disappoint.
To cap the day of great views, leave your inhibitions behind and delve into Marbella's strip clubs. Again, the possibilities are plenty. You won't be able to catch them all, but popular skin stations include Milady Place, Pink, and the Play..boy Club.
Day 3: Surf n' Turf
Since most Marbella clubs are in their prime from midnight to well after 4 a.m., we'll assume some of your morning is already spoken for in the name of recovery. But a good way to shake off the night's lingering effects is a walking tour of Marbella. If your hotel is in or around the downtown area, you'll have a variety of places to visit within walking distance of each other.
As you'll recall from your first day, the Golden Mile's La Fontanilla & El Fuerte beaches are flanked by the Promenade, where your role today can be observer rather than participant. You can also behold Marbella's marinas and the awesome yachts docked there.
old town and orange square
Old Town is Marbella's remaining testament to the world that existed before the city's influx of wealth. Orange Square is outstanding for its people-watching factor, and is home to the Nueva Andalucia flea market on Saturdays. Art lovers should make a point to browse Galleria d'Arte Van Gestel and Galleria H, where you're sure to see famous works.
You've had a couple days to view the Mediterranean, now it's time to immerse yourself -- literally. Marbella offers safe, expert diving with Happy Divers and H20 Sports. Both businesses have the gear and the lessons (if you need them).
Since you're already sporting casual swimwear, you may as well hit the sand one last time. If you can, try a different playa for another perspective on Marbella's beach scene. On your way back to the hotel, drop by a tapas bar one last time.
After your familiar with the late afternoon/early evening nap, get ready for one last evening in Marbella. Our final dinner options include Mesn del Museo, with decent French cuisine and main courses ranging from $18 to $24. Another choice for supper is Villa Tiberio's for Italian and international fare, with main courses ranging from $20 to $29 and fixed-price menu choices for $50 to $56.
As you found out last night, Marbella's club scene revs up after midnight, and tonight you are going to be a dancing machine. But first, no visit to Spain is complete without watching flamenco dancing. One of the places to go is Ana Maria for its relative authenticity and great drink selection; cover charge is $17.
When you're ready to take the floor, La Notte is a fashionable club and, better yet, it has no cover charge. But Marbella's hippest hotspot is Oliva Valer. Have your $36 cover charge ready and party like a rock star from midnight to 7 a.m. -- after all, you'll have plenty of time to sleep on the plane, right?
the other mediterranean destination
Marbella may not be the first destination in the minds of travelers, and some argue the best days have come and gone. But its beauty and luxury -- natural and man-made -- make this Spanish Costa del Sol getaway a must-visit.
tips for the trip
- Even if you've only had a couple drinks, be extremely wary of driving. European blood-alcohol limits are quite low and penalties are high.
- There's a lot of old money and high society frequenting Marbella. Be prepared to dress the part if you want to blend.
- Like most heavily-visited parts of Europe, you can get by in Marbella without speaking the native tongue. But to enjoy a richer experience and communicate outside the tourist traps, at least basic Spanish is helpful.
- You won't mingle with many backpacking, college-aged travelers here unless they're just passing through. There's youth here, certainly; but beyond the dance clubs most of the crowd is quite mature.
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/marbella/1164010001.html - Marbella
http://www.frommers.com/destinations/gibraltar/3590010029.html - Girbraltar
http://www.marbella.com/
http://www.spain.info/TourSpain/Deportes/Golf/A/MP/0/Santa%20Clara%20Golf.htm?Language=en
http://www.golfspain.com/ing/campos_info.asp?idCampo=365
http://www.infohub.com/outfitters/157.html
Marbella Travel Guide
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