In his comprehensive guide to selecting tasteful men’s apparel, Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, style-maker Alan Flusser discusses three traditional types of suits: the American, the English and the Continental or European. While Flusser notes that these categories have now blended into one another and are not as distinct as they were in the ‘80s, we think these terms are still useful for creating a mental representation when picking the right suit for your body.
We reinterpret these three traditional suits to show you how each type in its modern incarnation is suited to different body shapes. In picking the right suit for your body, find out which suit will fit you best and pick up valuable tips for dressing your body to its best advantage.
American suit
In picking the right suit for your body, remember: An American-style suit is best for larger bodies, and indeed was first created to accommodate the larger frames of many Americans compared to their European counterparts. Two of the hallmarks of this classic suit that continue to make it appropriate for today's larger men are the three-button, single-breasted blazer and the plain-front trousers. A three-button blazer, like a two-button blazer, will never go out of style, but the three-button blazer, particularly when the top button is left undone, has the advantage of elongating the body of a heavy-set man, thereby making him appear taller and thinner.If you’re dying to wear a double-breasted blazer and you’re packing a few extra pounds, don’t despair; the extra layer of fabric will smooth out additional lumps and bumps. Also, as long as the lapels meet below the waist, the V-effect created by a double-breasted jacket will make you seem taller. In addition, larger men should look for jackets with side venting or double venting to conceal their wider posteriors while sitting or moving.
When it comes to your bottom half, picking the right suit for your body entails choosing a suit with plain-front trousers; this will slim your belly and pelvic region if you’re a little on the chunky side, whereas pleated pants will draw unwanted attention to this area of your body.
This lightweight, gray wool suit from Ted Baker features flat-front trousers and sloped but slightly padded shoulders that will bring attention to your face. In addition, the blazer has eight interior pockets and few exterior pockets, so as long as you don’t carry unnecessary extras around, you’ll appear less bulky. The angled exterior pockets will also do a lot to minimize your hips.Price: $417 at Bluefly.com
British suit
When picking the right suit for your body, keep in mind that English suits are most flattering on average and athletic body types. As a result of their design (which bears resemblance to a military uniform, due in part to the hacking-style jacket with it’s long shape, slightly nipped waist and flared skirt), British suits tend to confer an authoritative appearance on their wearer. Like a uniform, the shape of the suit also follows the line of the body quite closely and puts emphasis on the chest. Other features of English-style suits include soft shoulders, slightly shorter jacket sleeves and side vents -- although, these days, side vents are often dispensed with in favor of a single, central rear vent.If you have an average or athletic build, especially if you are particularly tall, a British suit will really complement your physique. For tall men, the jacket’s longer length will keep a sense of proportion to your body and the extra pockets will create more horizontal lines on your body and balance you out a bit more. Men with very V-shaped, athletic bodies will benefit from a single-breasted, two-button blazer in which the lapels sit higher up on the chest in order to reduce emphasis on the width of the shoulders. The nipped-in waist of the British suit, as well as its tapered sleeves, are also good for athletic bodies as these features emphasize other areas of your body and take attention off your top half.
Love the look of English suits and have a bit of cash to splash out? In that case, get yourself a bespoke suit, as at their core, English suits are really about high-quality materials, detailing and tailoring. Obviously not everyone has the time or the money for a trip to Savile Row, so this suit from legendary English designer Paul Smith is your next best bet. Gorgeous bluish-gray wool is expertly tailored in a hacking-style jacket with slim-fit trousers, and this fine suit also features immaculate detailing, including kissing buttons on the jacket’s cuffs.Price: $1142 at PaulSmith.co.uk
Continental suit
According to Flusser, the predominant traditional aspects of European (particularly Italian) suits have been a close cut, severe shoulders, a shorter length and small, high armholes. These suits are also usually single-breasted with two-buttons, have slim-cut trousers with a lower rise and a ventless back to slim the figure further. Although nowadays it’s not as common to find jackets without venting, many features of the European suit have been preserved in mass-made suits.When picking the right suit for your body, remember: Men on the bulkier side must avoid European-style suits entirely. To wear a European suit, one requirement is a slim, more stereotypically European physique. Worn properly, these suits are quite sexy, but worn improperly, you can come off looking like a small boy. If you have a very slim build, stay away from very fitted suits to make sure you carry off the style with flair. Instead, pick a suit that skims the body, and thereby adds a bit of bulk, otherwise you’ll end up looking like a rail. Men with average builds can invest in slightly more fitted suits than their very slim counterparts.
Made in one of Italy’s premier mills, this suit from J. Crew exemplifies a number of the characteristics of a modern European-style suit. Made of refined wool, this single-breasted suit has wonderful draping, a two-button closure, angled shoulders, and slimming tapered trousers. And thanks to the use of super smooth wool, it can be worn year-round.Price: $350 at JCrew.com
0 comments:
Publicar un comentario