How To Determine Sleeve Length

Sleeves - Credit: iStockPhoto.com

You could guess at your sleeve length and look like you’re wearing Dr. Seuss-like stockings on your arms or you could take a moment and assess your appropriate sleeve length. Keep your sleeves too short and you’ll look like the guy who never made it out of the mail room; keep them too long and you’ll look like the new hire stuck making copies. In reality, it takes very little time to learn how to determine sleeve length and the benefits of great style will pay off for years to come.

Measuring for shirt sleeve length

The proper way to determine sleeve length is to measure your arm at the center point where your neck meets your shoulders. Hold your arm slightly akimbo, as though you had your thumb hooked into your pant pocket, and guide the tape down along your arm to your elbow and on toward your wrist. Stop at the point where your forearm meets the palm of your hand. Holding your arm bent just a little gives you the opportunity for fluid arm motion without the buttoned cuff catching on your forearm when you reach out with your arm.

Measuring for jacket length

Once you determine sleeve length for a shirt, you’ll know if you need a short, regular, long or extra long jacket sleeve. Most men fall into the regular category or the long. These are basic cut lengths that allow a tailor to lengthen or shorten a jacket sleeve. You should be most concerned with the fit in the shoulders and chest area, so let the tailor worry about the sleeves. Just makes sure you show some cuff on that shirt.

How much cuff to show

The traditional rule is to show one-half inch of cuff under your jacket sleeve. If you have the time and money, the appropriate thing to do is have a tailor adjust the sleeves of your jacket to show the shirt sleeve. If you don’t have this luxury and you’re lucky enough to have arms just long enough that a long jacket sleeve looks just a little too long right off the rack, you’ll be able to wear a regular jacket size and show just enough cuff. Wearing a longer shirt sleeve to achieve this length is not advised as you will end up looking like Jack Sparrow in a business suit.

French cuffs and barrel cuffs

If you prefer a barrel button cuff then stay with a half-inch of cuff exposure. If you have the means to sport French cuffs and cuff links on daily basis, you will want to expose your cuffs a full inch or more depending on the shape and size of the cuff. You don’t wear French-cuffed shirts to hide them in the jacket sleeve, which means no matter what size jacket you wear you will have to have the jacket sleeve shortened to show the cuffs.

some do’s and don’ts

Buying off-the-rack shirts means you might feel you have to compromise on the fit of the shirt. Some men play the game of deciding never to wear a tie because they can’t close the top button, although the sleeve length is perfect. Others suffer with a longer sleeve in order to find the right neck size. If this is you, find a better men’s shop. Several stores feature off-the-rack dress shirts in multiple combinations of size and fit. Once you find a line you like, buy a few extra shirts and stay loyal to those that make you look good. Another option is to order custom-made shirts online. They’re not as expensive as you might think and if you wear them every day, they’re worth trying.

Men also forget that watches affect the fit of sleeve length. Choose a watch appropriate to the occasion, cuff style and fit of the shirt. So many men invest in only one watch, wear it everywhere, and end up looking foolish as their expensive sport watch snags and drags along the shirt cuff and jacket. A low-profile, smooth, thin watch is your best option to preserve your clothing and present yourself in a clean and streamlined image.

the right fit

Sleeve length seems like a minor issue when most of us are more concerned with the cost of the shirt and the suit, but the minor details of fashion are always the most important if you want to look your best. Get out the tape measure and try it once -- you’ll see the difference immediately
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