The “less is more” philosophy has finally permeated men’s fashion. Today’s most fashion-savvy gents are showing more cuff at the sleeve and more ankle with the pant; they call it the fitted suit. It’s a sleek, streamlined ensemble with two unique details: 1) a slimmer fit, especially in the shoulders; and 2) shorter hemlines (as mentioned above).
With its fast-paced appeal, the fitted suit defies traditional rules; yet, these suits are available right off the rack. That’s why, to help indoctrinate the masses on how to buy a fitted suit, we’ve compiled these foundational tenets on how to purchase one based on body type.
the bulky man
Wear lightweight fabrics
A man with a fuller frame, be it from added time at the gym or the buffet, should find a fitted suit that’s slenderizing. Thankfully, given that it’s a slimmer cut, you’re automatically behind the eight ball. From the get-go, only focus on models made from lightweight fabrics; suits built from bulkier textiles will only add weight, compounding the problem. Let soft, worsted wools be your guide.
Use dark colors
While light colors make the body seem fuller, dark colors have the opposite effect. As these darker colors are slimming, they will do wonders to lighten the appearance of your frame, making you seem lighter on your feet. As for specific colors, choices like black and dark navy are as complementary as they are classy.
Make it solids or vertical stripes
For guys with extra meat on their bones, solids work best to create a sleek, slender visual. While loud patterns will definitely work against you, there are still options for finding a suit with added detailing. Since vertical stripes elongate the frame, they are both appropriate and chic. Big guys can also choose tiny, innocuous patterns for a bolder look, but only if they proceed with caution.
Take two on the jacket
Added cushion on the torso can mean a disproportionate look in the jacket. To ensure the best-looking fit in the coat, remember that two buttons are optimal. The two-button jacket is now the norm and designed to work for all body types. As an industry standard, it won’t draw attention to your bulky frame, like the modish impact of a one-button jacket or the slimming effect of a three-button piece.
Stay single on the vent
While it’s doubles on the buttons, bulky guys must keep the inverse in mind on the vent; specifically, avoid double-vented jackets. Vents, which are the slits at the back of the jacket, allow more movement. They also attract the eye, so huskier guys may not want to accentuate their backside. Instead, go for a single-vent jacket, which will give you the extra room you need minus the extra attention.
the tall and skinny man
Add weight with heavier fabrics
On a tall, skinny guy, lightweight fabrics will hang and make you look all the more frail. Opting for heavier wools that hold their form is the smart decision; suits constructed from this type of fabric will give you much-needed proportion and the appearance of additional weight. Ask the salesmen for tweed or a heavier weight worsted wool.
Stay with lighter colors
While the fabric should be heavy, the color should be light. Lighter colors, thanks to their visual powers, make things appear more bulky (in this case, you). What’s more, since vertical stripes elongate and dark colors slim, either will serve only make you look taller and skinner. Choose a suit that’s a lighter color -- such as gray -- and that has no vertical stripes.
Own a three-button jacket
Long and lanky? Then you have the dubious distinction necessary to wear a three-button jacket. Since three buttons create height and length, tall guys, with their longer torsos, can pull this look off successfully. While bulky and short guys would be advised to stick to two-button jackets, tall and skinny guys are eligible for this modish feature (only button the top two buttons, though).
Err on the side of the single vent
With no junk in the truck, tall, skinny men have two options for the vent: 1) no vent; or 2) a single vent. Since jacket vents allow movement and create visual appeal, they give features to the jacket that skinny fellows don’t necessarily need. Sticking with a single-vent or ventless jacket produces a modest, fuller look in the rear.
Buy pants with a regular rise
Tall guys have long legs, so their pants shouldn’t make them seem any taller. The best way to prevent seeming any taller than you are is to ensure the pants have a longer rise; the rise of the pants, which is the distance from the waistband to the crotch, helps establish the proportions between the body and the legs. That’s why a regular rise will bring balance and symmetry to your already long legs and torso.
the short man
Avoid loud patterns
For vertically challenged guys, the choice of fabrics is wide open, while the option for loud patterns is not. The print of an overly bold pattern screams for attention (this is not good for you). Wearing a loud pattern, especially in a suit, will only draw attention to your diminutive frame. Lest you want to be perceived as having a Napoleon complex, choose quieter options that are erudite and subdued.
Rely on vertical stripes
For short men, the next best thing to a shoe with a higher sole is a suit with vertical stripes. As stripes run top to bottom, they tend to draw the eye upward. Plus, they also lengthen your frame by elongating the look of the suit. Both of these traits make vertical stripes ideal and advantageous for shorter men; they give them the illusion of appearing taller than they really are.
Make it one button or two
Should you be on the shorter side, let your jacket have either one or two buttons, depending on how fast you want your look to be. One-button jackets are modish, while two buttons are today’s traditional bread-and-butter style. Whichever option you choose, keep in mind that fewer buttons neutralize the proportions of your look.
Go for double vents
Small guys, the double-vent jacket was created with you in mind. The dual slits (or vents) along the side emphasize the outside lines of the body; in doing so, they establish an attractive, longer silhouette that complements and lengthens your frame. A double-vent jacket is not only the appropriate look for short guys, but also the stylish option for an accomplished sense of style.
Buy pants with a low rise
When it comes to the pant, look for a low rise. The rise is the vertical distance from the waist to the crotch; low-rise pants stretch out the torso, making you seem taller. They dramatize the proportions of your frame to look sleeker and longer. In fact, the lower the rise of the pants, the longer the body looks.
find the right fit
Trends in men’s suits include sharp lines, close tailoring and shorter hems. Yes, the fitted suit offers guys an updated, sophisticated take on a look that’s traditionally left unaltered. And now that the fitted suit has emerged on the scene, guys willing to take a risk should embrace these trends and demonstrate their fashion-savvy skills.
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