How To Wear A Tuxedo

Tuxedo - Credit: iStockPhoto.com

If the evening calls for a tuxedo, you don’t have to be just another penguin and you don’t have to be afraid to rent one. Renting a tuxedo allows you the pleasure of not spending hundreds for an outfit you’ll only wear occasionally and you’ll be able to rent the latest style. Renting is easier than you think, but knowing how to wear a tuxedo will single you out as a man who knows how to dress well when the occasion calls for only the best.

Lately, I’ve noticed the garish trend of men opting out of the tuxedo. They either think it’s unnecessary or they don’t want to go to the effort. Unfortunately, they only look foolish.

I recently attended the annual gala opening of the Indianapolis Symphony, which is a
formal, black-tie affair with international guests that include ambassadors and philanthropists. On this night, we enjoyed the solo efforts for guest violinist Joshua Bell. Bell grew up near Bloomington, Indiana, where he is now a professor at the Indiana University School of Music when he is not touring the world or scoring films. As a native son, I thought the audience would be especially eager to turn up in tuxedos and evening gowns. Alas, the scourge of fashion -- that casual Friday uniform of golf shirt and khakis -- ruled the night.

Would it have been so hard to find an affordable tuxedo at the last minute? I think not. If the invitation states that black-tie is optional, then, by all means, you had better show up in black-tie. The use of the word “optional” is just a polite way of reminding you what you should wear.

With that it mind, it occurred to me that with today’s relaxed fashion doctrine, many men may not know how to wear a tuxedo. So, I’m taking it upon myself to teach you young men exactly how to wear a tuxedo.

When to wear a tuxedo

If the invitation to a wedding or the theater tickets say that it’s “optional” to wear a tuxedo, then you don’t have an option -- wear a tux. Then again, even if it doesn’t state the attire, you should go to the extra effort of showing your young lady friend that you’re a man of taste and wear one for that romantic evening at the theater. You really don’t have to have an invitation as an excuse or a reason. Her affection should be enough of an incentive -- it will be worth it.

Ways to wear a tuxedo

Tie options: The first thing you’ll encounter when you’re learning how to wear a tuxedo is that you have three tie options to decide upon: The first is the pre-tied bow tie. The second is the actual bow tie, which takes a steady hand and a bit of practice. If you’re in a rush, don’t even think about this one. Third, a black tie adds a modern touch to any tux and is best for an evening with a younger crowd.

Collar styles: The band collar with the two small points facing down is what you usually get from the tux shop. If, however, you have a pinpoint French-cuffed shirt of your own, wear it instead. Why? First, you know it will fit. You’ll also be more comfortable and you won’t have to pay for a lousy shirt rental.
Cuff links - Credit: NeimanMarcus.com
Shoes: I have two words for you: Black leather. Skip the patent-leather shoes that come with the tux at the rental shop and just wear your own black dress shoes, but make sure they are a simple capped toe and polished to a high shine. You’ll be happier during the event and the next day.

Cuff links and shirt studs: If you’re renting, just go with the set that comes with the tux. Otherwise, stay with
cuff links in silver or stainless steel that don’t attract too much attention.

Which style of tuxedo should you wear?

The single-breasted jacket is the all purpose and classic style that will fit all body types and sizes.Classic - Credit: NeimanMarcus.com

The double-breasted jacket
always looks better on taller men because of its boxy shape and cut. If you are under six-feet tall, stay with a single-breasted jacket.

The shawl-collar jacket is the style that
Sean Connery made famous as Bond, but its time has passed. If the salesman tries to talk you into this style, just go somewhere else.

The white dinner jacket is the only thing that will do if you have the luxury of attending a black-tie affair in a tropical climate. Otherwise, you’ll just look foolish, because even though it might be summer and the heat index is off the charts, a white dinner jacket simply looks out of place in a landlocked city.

Bending the rules

Wearing only the jacket is probably the single best way to dress up a pair of jeans. The mere act screams rebel, so if you’re not confident in yourself when the moment arrives to step outside, go back in and try something else.

Wearing the jacket and trousers with a matching black shirt for a modern look is worth trying if you’ll be attending any event other than a wedding. The shirt, however, must be exceptionally well-made and look as good on its own as it does under the jacket.

The do’s dont’s of the tuxedo

The biggest mistake men make when wearing a tuxedo is placing the cummerbund around their waist with the pleats facing down. Over a hundred years ago, the pleats were designed to face up and were used to hold theater tickets. This was at a time when trousers did not have pockets and all men carried their money in their jackets. So, pay homage to your ancestors and wear the pleats up. You can still hold your ticket stubs in the pleats.

sharp-dressed man

Men have a terrible tendency in life to ridicule the fashions that once made men -- men with jobs and responsibilities that allowed us to attend black-tie parties where high-octane cocktails were served cold. Along the way, we sometimes still want to go to the party, but we don’t think we should dress up. If you don’t want to wear the appropriate attire, then you might as well stay home. Otherwise, get thee to yonder tux shop and enjoy the fun. The drinks are cold and the ladies are wearing actual dresses. Your efforts will be rewarded.
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